Why Achill Island is the Perfect Staycation in the West of Ireland
With overseas travel not always necessary, there has never been a better time to rediscover Ireland’s own remarkable islands. Off the coast of County Mayo, Achill Island offers dramatic scenery, Atlantic beaches, rich history and a slower pace of life — making it an ideal alternative to foreign travel.
Achill Island came highly recommended by a family member last year, so a short visit was planned — just one overnight stay, but enough to get a feel for the place. My previous visit had been decades ago, as a student without a car, relying on lifts and Bus Éireann. This time, travelling independently made all the difference.
Getting There: The Journey West
The journey to Achill is long but rewarding. The quickest route is via Limerick and the Galway motorway, while another option is through the Midlands via Mullingar, linking Carlow’s M9, Tullamore and the M4 before heading towards Castlebar. For those who prefer extended motorway driving, this route works well.
From Waterford, allow 4.5 to 5 hours, including breaks. The Limerick bypass is excellent, though the Tipp–Limerick section still feels outdated for modern traffic. With over 200 miles to cover, making full use of the motorways is advisable.
First Impressions & Where We Stayed
We stayed in Achill Sound, close to where the old railway once terminated and at the end of the Great Western Greenway. The area is lively, with plenty of cyclists taking advantage of the flat, scenic route.
One of Achill’s biggest advantages is that it is accessible by car, allowing visitors to explore freely. There are numerous walking and hiking trails, outdoor dining options at pubs, and several casual diners — including a surprisingly good American-style diner.
Landscape, Trails & Local Life
Mayo is famous for its bogland and hills, and Achill reflects this perfectly. Signage across the island is good, but a visit to the tourist office at Keel Bay is essential. The staff provide excellent maps and local insight, helping visitors plan walks and drives with confidence.
Keel Bay itself boasts a fantastic sandy beach with shallow waters, ideal for families. One of the highlights of the trip was simply parking the car, swimming in the sea on a warm day, and looking back at the striking hills framing the bay.
Nearby facilities include ample parking, a busy caravan park, house rentals, B&Bs, and water sports such as kayaking, surfing and even diving. Porpoises are occasionally spotted offshore.
Keem Bay & the Atlantic Drive
Further along Achill’s south coast lies Keem Bay, nestled between the towering Benmore Cliffs and Croghaun Mountain. Reached via the Atlantic Drive, the road surface is generally good, though narrow in places — meeting large camper vans can be challenging.
Keem is also a starting point for walks leading towards some of Ireland’s highest sea cliffs, with limited road access beyond this point. Paths and boreens lead hikers further west towards Achill Head.
Accommodation & Dining
We checked into the Achill Island Hotel, offering exceptional value — around €50 per person, with a three-course dinner option for approximately €30. The traditional Irish breakfast alone sets you up for a full day of exploring.
Family-run and welcoming, the hotel also offers bike hire, making it a convenient base. Autumn breaks are possible, particularly midweek, though summer months tend to book out quickly.
Dining is hearty and traditional — roast lamb, salmon and wholesome Irish fare served in generous portions.
Walking, Cycling & Outdoor Activities
Achill offers a wide range of mapped walks, catering to different fitness levels. Weather awareness is essential, as some routes are high and exposed. Good walking boots are strongly recommended due to boggy terrain, and paved routes may be preferable for casual walkers.
Cycling routes are plentiful but challenging, given the island’s hills. Cyclists carrying camping gear may find some stretches demanding.
Slievemore Deserted Village & History
One of Achill’s most striking historical sites is the Slievemore Deserted Village, accessible via clear road signage. Dating back to the early medieval period, the village was deeply affected by the Great Famine of 1847.
Many of the stone cottages — built without mortar — still stand, preserved as a powerful reminder of the past. Homes were often single-room dwellings, shared with animals during harsh winters, with doorways facing east to avoid Atlantic winds.
Nearby are megalithic tombs, a holy well, and a graveyard still used by families whose ancestors relocated nearby after the famine years.
Culture, Literature & Emigration
Mayo has a profound history of emigration to cities such as London, Manchester, Leeds, and across the Atlantic to New York, Boston and New England. Achill’s story is deeply connected to this diaspora.
The island later gained attention through artists such as Paul Henry and Jack B. Yeats, whose landscapes captured its raw beauty. Writers, including Heinrich Böll, lived and worked on Achill, helping introduce Ireland to German tourists. Böll stayed near Dugort Beach, where a welcoming beachfront bar and restaurant can still be found.
Achill also features a literary heritage trail and hosts cultural events, including writers’ weekends and walking festivals.
Shopping, Food & Local Produce
Highlights include:
- Achill Sea Salt, including seaweed blends
- Achill Island Distillery, offering tours and tastings near Bunacurry
- Craft shops selling wool jumpers, pottery, art and souvenirs
- Local galleries (time permitting)
Nearby Stops & Practical Tips
- Newport makes a good stop for supplies, with SuperValu and Mace well stocked
- Westport is the main regional hub, known for its architecture and Westport House
- The Great Western Greenway attracts large numbers of walkers and cyclists
- Achill has a scenic 9-hole golf course at Keel
Public transport is possible via train to Westport and onward bus connections, though travel time is long.
Final Thoughts
Achill Island combines natural beauty, deep history, outdoor adventure and genuine Irish hospitality. Whether staying for a night or a week, it offers a refreshing reminder that some of the best travel experiences are right on our doorstep.
For further information:
- achilltourism.com
- visitachill.com
Tourist Office: 098 20400
