Croatia may not be as widely known in Ireland as Spain or Portugal, but destinations such as Dubrovnik, Istria and the Dalmatian coast have grown in popularity in recent years. Yet beyond these headline spots lies a quieter gem — the island of Lošinj.
We first visited Croatia in late 2019 for the Christmas markets in Zagreb. This time, after speaking with Croatian friends, we decided to explore somewhere less familiar — the Kvarner Gulf and the island of Lošinj.
Getting There
Flight frequency in September is lower than peak summer, with just two weekly direct services. We flew with Croatia Airlines direct to Zagreb, avoiding a London transfer. Zadar is another useful airport for island access, served by Croatia Airlines and Ryanair.
Hiring a car significantly reduces travel time compared to public transport. We booked through CarTrawler and collected an Enterprise vehicle at Zagreb Airport. After a smooth pickup, we drove towards Rijeka via the tolled motorway.
Rather than attempt the island journey in darkness, we wisely stopped overnight in Crikvenica, an old fishing port now popular with German, Austrian and Czech visitors. Excellent value was evident immediately — a beachfront hotel for €60 and a three-course dinner with drinks for €15.
Journey to Lošinj
The following morning we crossed to Krk Island, taking the ferry from Valbiska to Merag on Lošinj (around €20 with car, 25 minutes). From there, a scenic but winding drive with hairpin bends led us south to Mali Lošinj, the island’s main harbour town.
The landscape is dramatic — rocky hills, pine forests and shimmering Adriatic waters. Tourism here is strong but not dominated by large package resorts. Visitors are mainly German, Austrian, Slovenian, Hungarian and Italian.
Dolphins & Adriatic Sunsets
One highlight was a 2.5-hour dolphin-watching tour off nearby Pag Island. We were fortunate to see ten dolphins surfacing near a fishing trawler. The operators work with marine foundations to identify and name dolphins, limiting viewing to 30 minutes to protect wildlife.
That evening, we sailed aboard a restored 100-year-old cargo schooner. Although there was little wind, the sunset over Lošinj was spectacular.
History & Maritime Heritage
Lošinj’s harbour dates back to Roman times, with Venetian and Austro-Hungarian influences shaping its development. Grain warehouses and shipyards once dominated the port, and maritime activity continues today.
A cultural highlight is the Museum of Apoxyomenos, dedicated to a remarkable Greek bronze statue discovered underwater by a Belgian diver. The statue, believed to have been destined for a Roman villa, lay hidden for centuries before careful restoration.
Nearby Osor is another charming historic village with harbour views and outdoor sculptures.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Aurora, part of the Valamar group. The setting is peaceful, with buffet three-course meals for under €20 and evening outdoor music until 11pm.
The atmosphere throughout the island is relaxed. Cafés typically close at midnight, and there is less of a pub culture compared to Ireland — more emphasis on dining terraces and marina cafés.
Cycling, Beaches & Coastal Life
A beautiful coastal cycle path runs from Mali Lošinj to Čikat through pine forest and along the sea. Bike hire costs under €10 for half a day. Electric bikes are popular for tackling the hills.
Beaches are plentiful but often rocky rather than sandy. Many visitors purchase swimming shoes locally. Some designated FKK (naturist) beaches exist — part of a long-standing Central European tradition.
Artisan stalls sell coral jewellery and local crafts. Fishing, olive growing and small-scale tourism remain key activities.
Why Visit Lošinj?
Lošinj feels like a European paradise — idyllic, safe and understated. It offers:
Dolphin watching tours
Historic harbour towns
Scenic cycling routes
Sunset boat trips
Relaxed dining at reasonable prices
Fewer crowds than Croatia’s headline islands
While getting there requires effort, summer catamaran services also operate from Zadar. The best months to visit are May, June and September — sunny, warm and less intense than peak July–August heat.
Final Thoughts
Lošinj may not yet be widely known in Ireland, but it deserves attention. For travellers seeking crystal waters, maritime heritage and a slower pace — all within the EU — this Adriatic island is a superb alternative to long-haul destinations.
A true hidden gem.