We recently had an interesting visit to North Mayo, with our destination being Belmullet and Erris. The scenery here is extraordinary and the area is so far away from Ireland’s east coast that not too many people make the journey.

In terms of remoteness and wildness, Erris reminded us of Donegal. It is a part of Ireland where the landscape is still a major part of the experience. Erris is also a Gaeltacht area, although we were told locally that some parts of the peninsula are not fully Irish-speaking.

The area is relatively underdeveloped and laid-back, but that remoteness comes with a price: it can be difficult to get to. From Waterford, we would allow around five hours by car, travelling via Tuam, the motorway from Limerick, Knock and Ballina before continuing for another 30 kilometres or so towards Belmullet. But once you arrive, you understand why the journey is worthwhile.

There is a sense that Erris has developed its own identity because of its isolation. The area’s remoteness helped preserve the Irish language and meant that, historically, it was not considered to be of great strategic importance.

Yet that same remoteness has also produced some extraordinary stories.

Getting There

For us, the most practical way to reach Belmullet and Erris was by car. From Waterford, the journey takes approximately five hours, depending on traffic and stops. The route takes you towards Tuam and across the west of Ireland before continuing through the Knock and Ballina areas and then onwards towards Belmullet.

It is a long journey from the southeast, but the roads have improved considerably over the years. For anyone travelling from elsewhere in Ireland, Ballina provides an important gateway to North Mayo. Once you reach Erris, having a car is particularly useful because many of the attractions are spread across a large peninsula. The distances can be deceptive. You can drive for quite some time while feeling that you are travelling through an almost completely empty landscape.

That is part of the attraction.

Exploring the Destination

Erris is one of those places where the landscape itself becomes the main attraction. The Atlantic is never far away, and there are beaches, cliffs, sea stacks, blow holes and dramatic coastal views throughout the peninsula. At times, you can almost feel as if you are on an island. The comparison with Achill Island is understandable, although Erris is not actually an island. There is even a sense of local rivalry between different parts of Mayo, just as you can encounter on Achill.

The peninsula is remarkably long and has an abundance of beaches and coastal scenery. The Atlantic can be rough here, producing enormous swells. We even saw local students from the Uisce Irish school swimming and surfing near the pier, a reminder that people living here are very much accustomed to the power of the sea.

Black Sod Lighthouse

One of the most fascinating places to visit is Black Sod Lighthouse. The lighthouse looks towards Achill Island in one direction and out across the enormous Atlantic in the other. But its importance goes far beyond its spectacular location. During the Second World War, weather information from this remote part of Mayo became extremely important.

The weather reports helped the Allies understand the developing Atlantic weather systems before D-Day. We met Fergus Sweeney, whose grandmother, Maureen Sweeney, worked at the lighthouse and became associated with one of the most remarkable stories in the history of the D-Day landings.

Fergus is an excellent guide and a former cameraman with RTÉ News. He now focuses on running a community and visitor centre in Erris, not far from Belmullet and Black Sod. Visitors can learn about the equipment once used for measuring wind and atmospheric pressure, including the observations that helped track changing weather conditions across the Atlantic.

The D-Day Weather Story

The weather around Ireland’s Atlantic coast can change rapidly. During the tense preparations for D-Day in 1944, weather information from Ireland was monitored closely by the Allies.

The observations from Black Sod helped identify an approaching period of severe Atlantic weather. The resulting information contributed to the decision to postpone the Normandy landings by one day. The invasion eventually took place on 6 June 1944.

Had the Allies proceeded in the earlier weather conditions, the rough seas and poor weather could have created an even more dangerous situation for the invasion fleet.Fergus explained to us that there was also secret cooperation between Ireland and the United Kingdom over weather information. Because Ireland was officially neutral during the war, the arrangements had to be handled carefully, and the information was subject to considerable checking.

It is an extraordinary story to find in such a remote corner of Ireland.

History & Culture

Pirates, Smugglers and Poteen

At the Solas Visitor Centre, we learned about the fascinating history of the Erris coastline. Centuries ago, local people sometimes raided or harassed passing ships in an attempt to obtain goods. The communities were poor, and ships passing offshore represented an opportunity to acquire some of the goods being traded.

The British authorities found it difficult to control such activities. There was no coastguard or naval presence operating in the area in those earlier centuries, while the isolated coastline provided plenty of opportunities for people to avoid official attention.

In later centuries, poteen-making became another illegal activity. Again, the area’s isolation made enforcement difficult. Illegal fishing was another issue during parts of the 1800s and later decades.

Today, however, the decline in fish stocks has changed the nature of the fishing industry considerably.

The Inishkea Islands

Erris has its own offshore islands, most famously Inishkea. The islands were once inhabited but were eventually abandoned. Fishing tragedies in the 1920s contributed to growing concerns about the safety and health of the island communities.

The government encouraged people to move to the mainland. The history of Inishkea adds another layer to the feeling that Erris is a place apart. There are many intriguing local stories and legends, and local writers have much to say about the area.

We felt there was so much more to learn that a return journey is definitely required.

Local Legends

Erris has an extraordinary collection of Gaelic legends and stories.

St Deirbhile’s Holy Well

St Deirbhile’s Holy Well is associated with one of the area’s most memorable legends.

According to the story, St Deirbhile wanted to escape from a man who was pursuing her. He praised her eyes, and in the dramatic version of the legend she tore them out and threw them at him. She later washed her eyes in the holy well and her sight was restored.

Whether viewed as religious tradition, folklore or simply a remarkable local story, it is the kind of legend that stays with you after visiting the area.

The Children of Lir

Another famous Irish legend associated with the region is The Children of Lir.

In the story, the children are transformed into swans and spend centuries wandering across the lakes and waters of Ireland. Eventually, their story is connected with the islands off the Erris peninsula, including Inishkea. These ancient Gaelic stories help give the landscape an added sense of mystery.

J. M. Synge

The area also has literary connections. J. M. Synge spent time in the west of Ireland and was fascinated by Irish rural life, folklore and the Irish language. His experiences in the west influenced his writing and his famous play The Playboy of the Western World.

Synge died tragically young, aged just 37, from Hodgkin’s disease. The connection between landscape, language, folklore and literature is particularly strong throughout western Ireland.

Céide Fields

Another major attraction in North Mayo is Céide Fields. This is one of Ireland’s most remarkable archaeological landscapes and provides an extraordinary insight into life thousands of years ago. The remains reveal an ancient farming landscape dating back approximately 5,000 years.

The discovery began in the twentieth century when locals cutting turf noticed unusual stones beneath the peat. Researchers eventually became involved, leading to archaeological investigations and the discovery of ancient field systems, stone walls and monuments. The visitor centre tells the story through displays, photographs and information about the people who lived in this landscape thousands of years ago.

The location also offers spectacular views along the North Mayo coast. It can be visited as part of a coastal journey between Ballina, Killala and the Erris area.

Killala and the French Connection

Travelling towards North Mayo, we passed through Killala, a coastal town with a famous connection to the French invasion of 1798. General Jean Joseph Amable Humbert landed in Ireland with French troops during the 1798 rebellion.

The French forces marched towards Castlebar, where they achieved a notable victory before eventually being defeated. The events of 1798 remain an important part of local history, and the French connection is still remembered in Mayo.

Killala’s historic round tower is another landmark worth seeing.

Nephin National Park

Further inland, Nephin National Park provides another reason to explore North Mayo. The landscape is mountainous, remote and exceptionally wild. The area offers opportunities for walking, hiking and experiencing Ireland’s darker skies.

The Ballycroy area has become particularly associated with stargazing and dark-sky experiences. On a clear winter night, there is even the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights. Wild camping opportunities are available in designated areas for hikers and walkers, although visitors should check the current rules and registration requirements before travelling.

Nephin itself is a challenging mountain, and the surrounding landscape is protected because of its natural importance. During our journey we even spotted people cutting turf by hand. Traditional turf cutting remains a controversial subject in Ireland because of environmental concerns and restrictions relating to peatlands.

Food & Dining

Food in North Mayo reflects the area’s rural and coastal character. Local cafés and community centres provide an opportunity to meet people and learn more about the area. The Solas Visitor Centre was particularly useful because it combined visitor information with local stories and community activity.

The wider Mayo region is also known for its seafood, traditional Irish cooking and locally produced food. One of the best ways to experience the area is to stop in smaller towns and villages rather than simply driving through.

Things to Do

Visit Belmullet

Spend time exploring the town and use it as a base for discovering the Erris peninsula.

Explore Black Sod Lighthouse

Discover the lighthouse, its weather equipment and the remarkable story connecting North Mayo with D-Day.

Visit the Solas Visitor Centre

Learn about local history, folklore, pirates, fishing and the communities of Erris.

Explore the Beaches

Erris has an abundance of beautiful beaches, many of which feel wonderfully remote.

Discover St Deirbhile’s Holy Well

Visit the holy well and learn about the fascinating local legend surrounding St Deirbhile.

Explore Céide Fields

Step back around 5,000 years and discover one of Ireland’s most important prehistoric landscapes.

Visit Killala

Explore the historic town, see its round tower and learn about the French invasion of 1798.

Explore Nephin National Park

Walk through one of Ireland’s wildest landscapes and, if conditions are right, enjoy some exceptional dark-sky viewing.

Visit Foxford Mills

Complete the journey with a visit to one of Mayo’s great industrial and social success stories.

Foxford Mills: A Remarkable Mayo Story

On our return journey, we headed towards Foxford. The story of Foxford Woollen Mills is one of the most remarkable examples of how employment and enterprise were developed in rural Ireland.

Foxford Mills began in 1892. The motivation was to create employment in Mayo at a time when the county was suffering from the long-term effects of the Great Famine, poverty and emigration. The local nuns played an important role in establishing the venture.

One of them proved to be an excellent salesperson and managed to secure early orders from Clerys in Dublin for the mill’s yarns. A key figure was a mill manager from Tyrone named Smith, who provided machinery expertise and helped the project get established.

A Major Employer

At its height during the 1950s, more than 250 people were employed at the mill. Foxford also became a major tourist attraction. At one point, visitor numbers reached around 160,000, making it one of the major attractions for American tourists visiting Ireland during the 1960s.

The combination of manufacturing, heritage and tourism gave Foxford an important role in the local economy.

Saving the Mill

The business eventually closed in 1987. However, it was rescued by Joe Queenan, an accountant who had lived in London before returning to his native Mayo. Under new ownership, the business was developed into a modern enterprise while maintaining its traditional heritage.

Visitors can see the mill in operation and learn about both the old and new machinery. The quality of the wool and linen products is excellent, with Foxford becoming particularly well known for its wool throws and blankets. The shop also stocks other traditional Irish wool products, including hats, jackets and other clothing.

There is also a restaurant, making the site a popular meeting point for locals and visitors. The company has developed a strong export market, with products reaching countries including Germany, the United States and France. If you want to take a tour of the mill, it is best to book ahead.

Joe has many great stories to tell, and stories of this type are an important part of Ireland’s industrial and social heritage.

Foxford and Waterford

There is also a lovely connection between Foxford and Waterford. Foxford products have a presence at Mount Congreve Gardens in Waterford, where visitors can find their blankets and throws. It is nice to see Waterford connected with the traditions of County Mayo.

Foxford wool products, like Waterford Crystal, have found markets overseas, particularly in Britain, Europe and the United States. These connections demonstrate how strong Irish craft and manufacturing traditions can reach far beyond their original communities.

Where to Stay

Belmullet is the natural base for exploring Erris, with accommodation, restaurants and local services available in the town and surrounding area. For a longer trip, you can also combine the area with stays in Ballina, Westport or Achill Island.

Because the region is spread out, it is worth choosing accommodation based on the attractions you most want to visit. If you plan to explore Black Sod, Céide Fields, Inishkea or the more remote coastal areas, staying locally will allow you to experience the region at a more relaxed pace.

Local Tips

Allow plenty of time for the journey to Belmullet and Erris.
A car is highly recommended because attractions are spread across a large area.
Bring suitable clothing for the Atlantic coast; weather can change quickly.
Don’t underestimate the power of the Atlantic around Erris.
Ask locals about the stories and legends — they add greatly to the experience.
Allow time for Black Sod Lighthouse and its remarkable D-Day connection.
Visit Céide Fields rather than simply driving past.
Killala makes an interesting stop on the journey towards North Mayo.
Check current access and registration requirements before wild camping.
If visiting Foxford Mills, book a tour in advance.
Consider combining Erris with Achill Island for a longer western Ireland road trip.
Give yourself several days if you really want to explore the peninsula rather than simply passing through.

Final Thoughts

Mayo may be a considerable driving distance from Waterford, but you will be happy you went. North Mayo and Erris feel different from many of Ireland’s better-known destinations.

The remoteness is part of the magic. Here you find enormous Atlantic waves, empty beaches, ancient archaeological landscapes, Gaelic legends, military history and communities that have maintained their identity despite generations of emigration and change.

The story of Maureen Sweeney and the D-Day weather reports shows how an apparently isolated place could have an impact on one of the most important events of the twentieth century. The legends of St Deirbhile and the Children of Lir demonstrate how deeply folklore is connected with the landscape. And then there is Foxford, where a 19th-century attempt to create employment after famine and emigration developed into a famous Irish textile brand with an international market.

That combination of history, landscape, people and stories makes North Mayo special. It may take a long drive to get there, but Erris is exactly the kind of destination that rewards those willing to travel a little further.

For us, one visit was certainly not enough.

A return journey is a must.

Useful Outbound Links

Official tourism information for County Mayo
Wild Atlantic Way information
Céide Fields visitor information
National Parks and Wildlife Service information for Nephin National Park
Black Sod Lighthouse and Erris visitor information
Foxford Woollen Mills visitor information
Heritage information for Killala and the 1798 French landing.

Belmullet & Erris, North Mayo: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Edge

Getting There