A recent visit to Wales saw us taking in the coastline, but on a wet day you need a few other options, so we decided to take the road inland.
We headed towards the inland town of Llandeilo, just off the A40, on our way towards the West Midlands of England and Birmingham.
Last year we passed this way but did not stop. This time Llandeilo became our base, and it proved to be a charming town on the River Tywi, which eventually flows towards the sea near Swansea.
From Llandeilo, we set off on a scenic drive across the Brecon Beacons before eventually reaching the English border town of Hay-on-Wye.
Sadly for us, the weather was not suitable for venturing into the Brecon Beacons hills, but we did manage to explore the world-famous book town of Hay-on-Wye.
And what a place it is.
Hay-on-Wye would certainly lift your spirits.
It is an intriguing little town full of culture, learning, books and history, with the River Wye nearby forming part of the border between Wales and England.
Getting There
Hay-on-Wye is a destination where having a car is particularly useful.
There is no railway station in Hay-on-Wye. The nearest major railway connection is at Hereford, with bus connections onwards to Hay.
For visitors travelling from Ireland, travelling by car via the Rosslare–Fishguard ferry provides a practical way to reach Wales.
The drive also allows you to explore some of the smaller towns and scenic routes along the way.
For our journey, Llandeilo provided a good base before travelling across the Brecon Beacons towards Hay-on-Wye.
The route itself is part of the experience.
Exploring the Destination
Hay-on-Wye is one of those places where you can easily spend several hours wandering around without following a particular plan.
The town is small, with a population of around 2,000, but it offers an extraordinary amount for its size.
There are attractive old buildings, independent shops, cafés, restaurants, antique shops and, most famously, an extraordinary collection of bookshops.
The town attracts visitors from Britain and around the world, with people of many different ages and nationalities arriving for books, music, talks, festivals and cultural events.
Hay Castle
Over the centuries, Hay’s strategic position resulted in numerous battles and conflicts, particularly around Hay Castle.
Today the castle has been restored and provides a fascinating place to explore the town’s history.
There is exhibition space, information about the area’s past, a café and parkland.
There is also a convenient car park nearby, along with the local tourism information centre.
The tourism office can provide information about accommodation, including bed and breakfasts.
The River Wye
The town sits close to the River Wye, which forms part of the border between Wales and England.
This borderland location has helped shape Hay’s history over many centuries.
Today, however, visitors are more likely to cross the border in search of books than battles.
History & Culture
Hay-on-Wye’s cultural identity is now firmly connected with books.
The town’s transformation into a book destination began in the 1960s and has developed into one of the most unusual tourism success stories in Wales.
The Hay Festival, which began in the 1980s, helped establish the town internationally as a centre for literature and ideas.
The festival attracts writers, readers, artists, academics and visitors from around the world.
If you plan to visit during the festival, booking accommodation well in advance is essential.
For anyone who loves books, Hay can feel like heaven.
You can spend hours moving from one second-hand bookshop to another, discovering books that you may not have seen for years.
In today’s increasingly digital world, there is something particularly enjoyable about browsing physical books.
The experience of looking through shelves, finding unexpected titles and chatting to booksellers is very different from shopping online.
The Bookshops of Hay-on-Wye
The town’s greatest attraction is undoubtedly its bookshops.
One of the best known is Richard Booth’s Bookshop, established in 1962.
Located on Lion Street, it has become an institution in Hay-on-Wye.
Some shops also buy books, so if you are bringing a car, you could potentially return home with a very different collection from the one you arrived with.
There are also specialist shops selling sheet music, music books, records and other musical material.
Antique and antiquarian books can be found throughout the town.
There are even unusual accommodation options connected with the book culture.
One bed and breakfast is called The Rest for the Tired, while other establishments combine books and accommodation in imaginative ways.
For book lovers, Hay is much more than a place to buy a book. It is an experience.
Food & Dining
Hay-on-Wye has a good selection of cafés, pubs and restaurants for a town of its size.
It is well worth staying overnight rather than simply making a short stop.
The town has a lively cultural atmosphere, and there can be music and other events taking place during the evening.
The historic pubs also add to the atmosphere.
The Black Swan is an old-style pub with a history dating back centuries.
The surrounding area also has plenty of traditional Welsh and British dining options.
Things to Do
Browse the Bookshops
This is the obvious starting point.
Give yourself plenty of time because there are far more books than you might expect.
Visit Hay Castle
Explore the recently restored castle, exhibitions and grounds while learning more about the area’s turbulent border history.
Explore the Independent Shops
Hay has much more than books, with antiques, records, music, gifts and specialist shops.
Attend the Hay Festival
The annual literary festival is one of the town’s biggest events and attracts an international audience.
Book well ahead if you intend to attend.
Explore the Welsh Borders
Hay’s location makes it an excellent base for exploring both Wales and the English border counties.
Visit Brecon
On the way to Hay, Brecon is worth a stop.
The town has attractive shopping streets, a riverside promenade, historic buildings, a cathedral and the remains of an old castle.
Walk Along the River
The Brecon Promenade provides a pleasant riverside walk.
Explore the Brecon Beacons
Better weather would have allowed us to explore more of the mountains and trails.
The area is ideal for longer walks, hiking and scenic drives.
Brecon
Our journey to Hay-on-Wye took us through Brecon, the gateway to the Brecon Beacons.
It is an attractive town with good shopping streets and the Brecon Promenade running alongside the river.
There is also an old castle hotel where visitors can stop for lunch, as well as a nearby church and cathedral.
We passed the Catholic church during our visit, where an Indian priest invited us inside.
There was a genuinely international congregation, with people from the UK, Asia, Africa and South America.
It was another reminder of how modern Wales has become increasingly multicultural.
Brecon is also famous for its Brecon Jazz Festival, traditionally held in August.
There is also a county show earlier in the month.
The mountain trails and scenic roads through the Brecon Beacons will have to wait for a better-weather visit, but they are highly recommended for anyone who enjoys walking and the outdoors.
Where to Stay
Llandeilo
We stayed in Llandeilo at the traditional Cawdor Hotel, originally a coaching inn dating back around 200 years.
The hotel has since undergone significant upgrades.
There is no lift, but we can certainly recommend the quality of the food, both dinner and breakfast.
Llandeilo itself is an attractive town with Georgian and Victorian buildings overlooking the fast-flowing and scenic River Tywi.
Llandovery
Nearby Llandovery is another attractive stop and has railway connections towards Swansea.
Brecon
Brecon has the Castle Hotel, which provides another option for visitors exploring the surrounding area.
Hay-on-Wye
In Hay, accommodation options include:
The Rest for the Tired — an unusual bookshop and accommodation option.
The Old Black Lion — a historic inn on Lion Street dating back to the 17th century.
The Swan at Hay — another accommodation option in the town.
Baskerville Hall Hotel — a more luxurious option with a spa. Prices can be considerably higher, particularly during busy periods.
Accommodation prices change, so always check current rates before booking.
Local Tips
Give yourself at least a full day to explore Hay-on-Wye.
Book accommodation early if visiting during the Hay Festival.
Bring a car if you plan to buy lots of books.
Check out the specialist music and record shops as well as the bookshops.
Don’t overlook Hay Castle.
Take time to explore the surrounding Welsh Borders.
Stop in Brecon if travelling through the Brecon Beacons.
Allow extra time for scenic drives rather than simply following the quickest route.
Weather in the Brecon Beacons can change quickly, so bring suitable outdoor clothing.
Hay is worth an overnight stay rather than just a short shopping stop.
Check accommodation websites for current prices before travelling.
Final Thoughts
Hay-on-Wye is a delightful place.
For a town of around 2,000 people, it has an extraordinary cultural presence.
The combination of historic buildings, the castle, the River Wye, independent shops, antique dealers, music venues and, above all, bookshops gives Hay a character that is difficult to find elsewhere.
For anyone who loves books, it is almost impossible not to enjoy wandering through the shelves.
In a world where so much reading and entertainment has moved online, Hay-on-Wye reminds us of the pleasure of discovering a physical book by accident.
The town also demonstrates how culture can transform a small community into an international destination.
Our journey through Llandeilo and Brecon added another dimension to the trip, with beautiful Welsh landscapes, historic towns and the spectacular Brecon Beacons along the way.
We were unlucky with the weather on this occasion, so the mountain walks will have to wait for another visit.
But Hay-on-Wye itself was more than enough to make the journey worthwhile.
Hay-on-Wye is definitely a place to put on the list — especially if you love books, history and discovering somewhere a little different.
