Antwerp might not be the glamorous destination that Paris or Amsterdam is, but it is a really interesting port city with plenty to discover. Antwerp has a great port, the second largest in Europe after Rotterdam. The city of Rubens boasts a fine old quarter, good markets, the Rubens House and good shopping, as well as busy evening entertainment.
Just half an hour from Brussels Airport by train, access is simple. Aer Lingus and Ryanair both fly from Dublin to Brussels, while Cork has summer services to Brussels. Amsterdam is also just one and a half hours away by train, making Antwerp an alternative destination for a European city break.
We found that two days covered the city well. Transport is easy, with buses and trams available throughout the city, while bicycle hire is also very popular.
Arriving in Antwerp
On arrival, we found our hotel close to the station. It had been raining heavily, but like Ireland, it does stop!
We got to the old town and found some nice places to hear music near the Cathedral.
The Muse is like a local Reg-style bar spread over three floors, with live jazz. Another bar has blues and the “Irish Times” next door at the big square has ballad music.
We did not hang out too late on night one as we had a boat tour of the port at 10am the following morning.
Discovering the Port of Antwerp
We took the boat tour to explore one of Antwerp’s greatest assets — its enormous port.
The tour takes around 90 minutes and was really amazing, giving us a sense of the size and extent of the operation.
Over 60,000 people work in the port and related industries.
It made a big comeback after World War II. Its many canals have a depth of around 4.5 metres for ships, while the locks open automatically onto the River Scheldt, around 50 miles from the sea.
Ships of up to 100,000 gross tons can come up here.
The port handled 14,000 trading ships in 2012 and this was growing, while barges totalled 157,000. It was truly amazing to see the activity.
A Working Port on a Massive Scale
On the boat trip you see where the coffee and banana ships arrive.
Steel ships unload their cargo, and when it is raining the steel is kept under cover as it is unloaded.
Stone, gravel, sand and various other building materials have their own wharves, as well as fertilisers and agricultural products.
It is truly highly efficient how it is done.
They try as much as possible to keep goods off the roads and use sea transport, river barges and rail to reach all parts of Europe.
Many industrial and textile goods come from China and Asia, coffee from Brazil and Colombia, and bananas from Central American countries.
It is a true discovery.
The Red Star Line Story
Afterwards, with the weather uncertain, we decided against a bike tour and went to see the Red Star Line Museum.
This fascinating museum tells the story of emigration to Canada and the USA.
Ships left Antwerp via Channel ports such as Cherbourg and Southampton for New York, Philadelphia and Halifax, Nova Scotia, from the 1870s to 1934.
Many Russian and Polish Jews escaping pogroms, poor German farmers and city dwellers also left.
Free land was advertised in Canada for farmers, and these people, used to cold winters, were prepared to handle it.
Great photographs of emigrants, their baggage and their life stories make the emigration story emotionally tangible and visible.
You can learn how people boarded the boats and were inspected for disease before departure.
It is a brilliant collection of old photographs from that period.
You can even check whether your relatives landed in New York during this period.
MAS Museum & Antwerp’s Multicultural History
The next stop was the MAS Museum, where the story of multicultural Antwerp, Belgium and its religions is explored.
On the stairways we saw photographs of Belgian refugees escaping fighting during World War I.
Families were hosted in nearby Holland, which remained neutral, while London areas such as Richmond and Dulwich had Belgian shops and schools during 1914–1918.
It was another reminder of how closely European countries have been connected through migration, trade and war.
Exploring the Old Town
It was then time to head into town, which you can easily do on foot.
We passed the shopping streets on a busy Saturday and explored some of the markets before reaching the impressive main market square.
There is also a red-light area where women pose in windows, similar to Amsterdam. Apparently, it used to be more extensive but has been toned down.
We were surprised to see so many young adults involved. It seems to be partially accepted in this part of the port city.
Shopping in Antwerp
We headed for the shopping streets around St Nicholas Square, where there is a great variety of quality and value.
There are different brands from those found in the UK, including Dutch and local Belgian chains.
Vintage and independent owner-run shops also abound, making it enjoyable to explore.
Antwerp prides itself on having many new fashion designers.
Antwerp and the World of Fashion
The MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp hosts exhibitions exploring fashion through the decades.
During our visit, the exhibition focused on shoes.
There were exhibits ranging from Broadway and old American movies to the punk era and glam rock.
It was fascinating to see how fashion interacts with music, film and theatre.
Rubens: Antwerp’s Most Famous Citizen
The following day we visited the magnificent Rubens House, dedicated to Antwerp’s most famous citizen.
Peter Paul Rubens was not only an artist but also a leading trader in art, civic leader and church architect.
His former home is now a museum containing paintings of Rubens, his family and famous scenes from his career.
For us, this was a must-do visit.
The fine art museum was closed during our visit, while the modern art museum was less interesting and could be visited quickly. The Rubens House therefore proved a real bonus.
Antwerp Cathedral
The Cathedral of Our Lady is another essential visit.
It is the largest cathedral in Belgium and contains major works by Rubens.
Entry was free with the Antwerp Card or €6 otherwise.
The high Gothic ceilings are truly impressive. The cathedral took centuries to complete, with construction beginning in the 14th century.
Antwerp became a major bastion of Catholicism during the Reformation.
The St Carolus Borromeus Church also has a beautiful façade, with Rubens involved in its decoration.
There is also St James’ Church, where pilgrims can receive a stamp when beginning the Camino. This is also the location of Rubens’ burial chapel.
Antwerp’s Catholic Heritage
Antwerp remained Catholic while its Dutch neighbours became Protestant.
One of the Spanish kings of the period was born in Antwerp and the city also became connected with the Austrian Habsburgs.
Belgium eventually became independent from the United Netherlands in 1830, following the French period under Napoleon from the 1790s.
The French influence remains visible today in Belgian food, architecture and culture.
French, Dutch and Belgian Influences
Overall, Antwerp has an interesting mix of French and Dutch culture.
French is less commonly spoken than you might expect, with English widely used as a second language.
Many people are multilingual, perhaps another reason why Antwerp has developed such a strong international trading culture.
One Belgian we met suggested that a united Belgium and Holland might have created an even stronger country.
Antwerp Diamonds
We met one Irish couple visiting Antwerp who told us that their work colleagues assumed they were going there to buy a diamond engagement ring.
They were not entirely wrong about Antwerp’s reputation.
The city is one of the world’s major diamond centres, with dealers offering private viewings where visitors can see some very valuable stones and jewellery.
Expect to hear prices running into several thousand euros and far beyond.
Aquatopia & Maritime Attractions
Aquatopia is another visitor attraction.
It explores the underwater world and is the type of attraction that could potentially work well in Ireland too, given our island nation’s strong relationship with the sea.
Belgian chocolate shops are also everywhere.
Look out for traditional Belgian chocolatiers and consider a brewery tour at De Koninck Antwerp City Brewery, where the Antwerp Card can provide discounts.
Belgian Beer & Café Culture
Antwerp is an excellent city for enjoying Belgian beer.
The Groenplaats is a great place to sit outside, enjoy a drink and watch city life unfold.
The city also has a lively Irish pub scene.
We stayed close to the station at the Keyser Hotel, which was comfortable and had a great breakfast.
Its location made it convenient for transport and there were plenty of late-night shops nearby.
Kelly’s Irish Pub and An Sibhin are other options for those looking for an Irish atmosphere.
Getting Around Antwerp
Antwerp has an excellent tram and bus system.
The city centre is also compact enough to explore on foot.
Bicycles are extremely popular and cycling is an excellent way to explore further if the weather is good.
We missed out on the bike tour because of the cold, damp weather, but it is something we would recommend trying on a future visit.
Getting There
From Dublin
Aer Lingus and Ryanair operate services from Dublin to Brussels.
From Cork
Cork has seasonal services to Brussels.
From Brussels Airport
There are frequent direct trains to Antwerp, with the journey taking around 35 minutes.
The train connection makes Antwerp particularly easy to reach without hiring a car.
From Amsterdam
Amsterdam is approximately one and a half hours away by train, making it possible to combine both cities.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Keyser Hotel, close to Antwerp Central Station.
The location was convenient for:
- Train connections
- Trams and buses
- Shopping
- Restaurants
- Nightlife
- The city centre
For a two-day visit, staying near the station is a practical choice.
Final Thoughts
Antwerp may not immediately have the glamour of Paris or Amsterdam, but that is exactly part of its appeal.
It is a real working city with a huge international port, fascinating migration history, world-class art, fashion, diamonds, Belgian chocolate and an excellent café and nightlife scene.
We have now visited Antwerp twice and can recommend it as an interesting European city break.
Two days is enough to see the main sights, but the city offers enough culture, food, history and entertainment to justify staying longer.
Antwerp might surprise you — and that is what makes it worth visiting.
