Europe

Europe, Travel Stories

Antwerp: Belgium’s Port City Full of Surprises

Antwerp might not be the glamorous destination that Paris or Amsterdam is, but it is a really interesting port city with plenty to discover. Antwerp has a great port, the second largest in Europe after Rotterdam. The city of Rubens boasts a fine old quarter, good markets, the Rubens House and good shopping, as well as busy evening entertainment. Just half an hour from Brussels Airport by train, access is simple. Aer Lingus and Ryanair both fly from Dublin to Brussels, while Cork has summer services to Brussels. Amsterdam is also just one and a half hours away by train, making Antwerp an alternative destination for a European city break. We found that two days covered the city well. Transport is easy, with buses and trams available throughout the city, while bicycle hire is also very popular. Arriving in Antwerp On arrival, we found our hotel close to the station. It had been raining heavily, but like Ireland, it does stop! We got to the old town and found some nice places to hear music near the Cathedral. The Muse is like a local Reg-style bar spread over three floors, with live jazz. Another bar has blues and the “Irish Times” next door at the big square has ballad music. We did not hang out too late on night one as we had a boat tour of the port at 10am the following morning. Discovering the Port of Antwerp We took the boat tour to explore one of Antwerp’s greatest assets — its enormous port. The tour takes around 90 minutes and was really amazing, giving us a sense of the size and extent of the operation. Over 60,000 people work in the port and related industries. It made a big comeback after World War II. Its many canals have a depth of around 4.5 metres for ships, while the locks open automatically onto the River Scheldt, around 50 miles from the sea. Ships of up to 100,000 gross tons can come up here. The port handled 14,000 trading ships in 2012 and this was growing, while barges totalled 157,000. It was truly amazing to see the activity. A Working Port on a Massive Scale On the boat trip you see where the coffee and banana ships arrive. Steel ships unload their cargo, and when it is raining the steel is kept under cover as it is unloaded. Stone, gravel, sand and various other building materials have their own wharves, as well as fertilisers and agricultural products. It is truly highly efficient how it is done. They try as much as possible to keep goods off the roads and use sea transport, river barges and rail to reach all parts of Europe. Many industrial and textile goods come from China and Asia, coffee from Brazil and Colombia, and bananas from Central American countries. It is a true discovery. The Red Star Line Story Afterwards, with the weather uncertain, we decided against a bike tour and went to see the Red Star Line Museum. This fascinating museum tells the story of emigration to Canada and the USA. Ships left Antwerp via Channel ports such as Cherbourg and Southampton for New York, Philadelphia and Halifax, Nova Scotia, from the 1870s to 1934. Many Russian and Polish Jews escaping pogroms, poor German farmers and city dwellers also left. Free land was advertised in Canada for farmers, and these people, used to cold winters, were prepared to handle it. Great photographs of emigrants, their baggage and their life stories make the emigration story emotionally tangible and visible. You can learn how people boarded the boats and were inspected for disease before departure. It is a brilliant collection of old photographs from that period. You can even check whether your relatives landed in New York during this period. MAS Museum & Antwerp’s Multicultural History The next stop was the MAS Museum, where the story of multicultural Antwerp, Belgium and its religions is explored. On the stairways we saw photographs of Belgian refugees escaping fighting during World War I. Families were hosted in nearby Holland, which remained neutral, while London areas such as Richmond and Dulwich had Belgian shops and schools during 1914–1918. It was another reminder of how closely European countries have been connected through migration, trade and war. Exploring the Old Town It was then time to head into town, which you can easily do on foot. We passed the shopping streets on a busy Saturday and explored some of the markets before reaching the impressive main market square. There is also a red-light area where women pose in windows, similar to Amsterdam. Apparently, it used to be more extensive but has been toned down. We were surprised to see so many young adults involved. It seems to be partially accepted in this part of the port city. Shopping in Antwerp We headed for the shopping streets around St Nicholas Square, where there is a great variety of quality and value. There are different brands from those found in the UK, including Dutch and local Belgian chains. Vintage and independent owner-run shops also abound, making it enjoyable to explore. Antwerp prides itself on having many new fashion designers. Antwerp and the World of Fashion The MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp hosts exhibitions exploring fashion through the decades. During our visit, the exhibition focused on shoes. There were exhibits ranging from Broadway and old American movies to the punk era and glam rock. It was fascinating to see how fashion interacts with music, film and theatre. Rubens: Antwerp’s Most Famous Citizen The following day we visited the magnificent Rubens House, dedicated to Antwerp’s most famous citizen. Peter Paul Rubens was not only an artist but also a leading trader in art, civic leader and church architect. His former home is now a museum containing paintings of Rubens, his family and famous scenes from his career. For us, this was a must-do visit. The fine art museum was closed during our visit, while the modern

Europe, France, Travel Stories

Montpellier: France’s Hidden Gem in the Sunny South

  Following the launch of the new Air France service from Cork to Paris, we took the opportunity to connect onward to the south of France with a short 90-minute flight to Montpellier. Known as the educational capital of southern France, Montpellier has also become one of the country’s most attractive destinations for culture, history, gastronomy and relaxed Mediterranean living. From elegant period buildings and grand public squares to beautiful parks, nearby beaches and vineyard-covered countryside, Montpellier offers far more than many visitors expect. One of the highlights was watching the sunset from the Arc de Triomphe overlooking the city, a wonderful way to begin our visit. Exploring the Historic Centre A walking tour is one of the best ways to discover Montpellier, although the compact historic centre is also easy to explore independently. Our guide introduced us to: Place de la Comédie Saint-Pierre Cathedral Medieval streets Historic churches The city’s synagogue The impressive Arc de Triomphe Jardin des Plantes Tours depart from the Tourist Office on Place de la Comédie, close to Saint-Roch station. One fascinating stop was the historic synagogue, where archaeological excavations uncovered a medieval Mikveh—a ritual bath used by Jewish women before marriage and family life. The discovery provides an important insight into the city’s long Jewish heritage and the role Montpellier played as a centre of medicine and learning. A City Shaped by History Montpellier’s history stretches back centuries and reflects many different cultures. Our guide explained how the city experienced: Moorish invasions Spanish influence Jewish settlement The Second World War The arrival of the “Pieds-Noirs” following Algerian independence The returning French settlers from North Africa helped shape modern Montpellier, bringing with them cuisine, culture and entrepreneurship. Jewish scholars also played a significant role in developing one of Europe’s earliest medical schools, helping establish Montpellier’s reputation as a centre for medicine that continues today. Today companies such as Sanofi maintain major operations here, reinforcing the city’s importance in healthcare and pharmaceutical research. Student City Meets Mediterranean Lifestyle Montpellier has approximately 300,000 residents. Around a quarter of the population are students, while another large proportion are retirees attracted by the warm Mediterranean climate. This combination creates a lively yet relaxed atmosphere. Visitors will find: Outdoor cafés International restaurants Student nightlife Safe pedestrian streets Excellent public transport Despite its youthful energy, Montpellier feels welcoming and easy to explore. Shopping, Markets & Local Life Shopping is another highlight. We discovered: Independent bookshops Antique stores Artisan food shops Wine merchants Local produce markets Jean Jaurès market area The local wines from the Hérault region deserve special attention. Wine Country Beyond the City Years ago we picked grapes in the countryside surrounding Montpellier, so revisiting the nearby village of Saint-Mathieu brought back many memories. Today the surrounding villages thrive as commuter communities while remaining at the heart of one of France’s important wine-producing regions. The famous Pic Saint-Loup appellation produces excellent wines and offers beautiful walking trails through forests and hills. During our visit the grape harvest was underway. A vineyard manager explained that unusually wet spring weather had affected yields this season, with many growers facing reduced harvests. Modern harvesting is now largely mechanised compared with earlier decades. One pleasant surprise was paying just €1.50 for a glass of local wine in a village café. A Day Trip to the Coast Montpellier also offers quick access to the Mediterranean. Using the city’s excellent tram network, visitors can travel to Palavas-les-Flots, where sandy beaches and seaside cafés provide an ideal day out. Highlights include: Wide sandy beaches Beachfront restaurants Seafront hotels Coastal walks A day tram ticket costs just over €4, making this an affordable excursion. Compared with the French Riviera, this coastline feels quieter, more authentic and far less crowded. Art & Culture Montpellier has an impressive cultural offering. The Musée Fabre houses excellent collections, including works by Picasso and other renowned artists. The city also reflects many chapters of French history, from the French Revolution to the Second World War. Throughout the historic centre visitors will discover sculptures, architecture and elegant Haussmann-style buildings that give Montpellier its distinctive character. Food & Dining Food is one of Montpellier’s greatest strengths. We enjoyed: Traditional French cuisine Vietnamese restaurants Local wine bars Outdoor cafés Plat du Jour lunch menus from around €12 Recommended areas include: Place de la Comédie Saint Anne Square Jean Jaurès For evening entertainment, visitors will also find Irish pubs including Carolans and Fitzpatrick’s, along with numerous cafés offering live music. Things to Do Some of Montpellier’s highlights include: Place de la Comédie Arc de Triomphe Saint-Pierre Cathedral Jardin des Plantes Musée Fabre Medieval Old Town Local food markets Tram ride to Palavas Beach Pic Saint-Loup wine region Historic villages including Saint-Mathieu Allow at least two full days to appreciate both the city and its surrounding countryside. Getting There By Air Air France operates services from Cork and Dublin via Paris Charles de Gaulle. The onward flight to Montpellier takes approximately 90 minutes. From Montpellier Airport an airport shuttle connects with the tram network for under €5. By Train The high-speed TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon takes approximately three hours. Advance booking offers the best fares. By Car Driving from northern France is possible but lengthy. Many visitors combine Montpellier with touring western France or neighbouring regions. Local Connections During our visit we met Matt Dolan from Tramore, now living in Montpellier with his wife Elodie and their young family. Having previously worked in hospitality in Ireland before moving to France, Matt now enjoys the Mediterranean lifestyle, excellent food and warmer climate. His story highlights how welcoming Montpellier has become for both international visitors and expatriates alike. Final Thoughts Montpellier combines history, culture, excellent food, beaches, wine and beautiful architecture into one highly enjoyable destination. Less crowded than the French Riviera but equally rewarding, it offers visitors an authentic experience of southern France with excellent transport links and outstanding value. Whether you’re planning a weekend city break or a longer tour of southern France, Montpellier deserves

Europe, Italy, Travel Stories

St Francis Way Tuscany: Italy’s Beautiful Camino Walk

St Francis Way Tuscany Walking Italy’s Beautiful Camino Through Tuscany Spain is normally associated with the Camino and perhaps France or Portugal. However, we were fortunate to try out a more recent route where Irish walkers are now heading – the Italian St Francis Way. This magnificent walk takes you through the stunning landscape of Tuscany in Northern Italy. While the original pilgrimage route stretches from Canterbury to Rome via Assisi, the Tuscan section lies just north of Assisi and offers some of the most rewarding walking in Europe. Camino Ways organised the trip and we were part of a special group led by Philip Cawley of Today FM. Philip also organises annual walking tours, including another planned for the autumn from Sarria on the final 120km of the famous French Camino to Santiago. It proved to be one of the finest walking holidays I have ever experienced. Related Reading: Read our guides to Lucca, Siena, and other Italian destinations on the blog. Arrival in Lucca The first day saw an early Aer Lingus flight to Pisa before transferring by coach to Lucca, our base for two nights. Lucca is an ancient city enclosed by magnificent medieval walls stretching almost five kilometres, even larger than the famous walls of Derry. The historic streets offered welcome shade from the afternoon sun while its impressive cathedral and piazzas invited leisurely exploration. There is also an Irish connection through St Frediano (St Fridianus), originally an Ulster prince who became Bishop of Lucca during the 6th century. Visitors can also climb the Guinigi Tower for panoramic views over the city. Beginning the St Francis Way The following morning we travelled by coach for over an hour to San Miniato, where the Italian Camino truly began. Our opening stage covered approximately 25km to Gambassi Terme, a famous spa town. Although challenging with several steep climbs, every member of the group completed the route. The Tuscan countryside constantly changed around us with vineyards, wheat fields, olive groves, walnut trees and pine forests creating magnificent scenery. With very few cafés along the trail, carrying plenty of water and snacks proved essential. Earlier that morning we had collected our official St Francis Way passport from the tourist office in San Miniato before setting off. That evening we returned to Lucca for dinner, having also gained a quick education in enthusiastic Italian driving! Through Vineyards and Medieval Villages Day two was a gentler 15km walk towards the magnificent medieval town of San Gimignano. We passed vineyards, olive groves and thermal springs before stopping at the village of Pancole, where a charming guesthouse served lunch in beautiful gardens. Nearby stands the Sanctuario di Pancole, associated with a local legend of the Madonna appearing to a deaf child during a devastating drought. According to tradition, the child regained both speech and food, while rain finally returned to save local families. The rich Tuscan countryside, lined with cypress trees and rolling vineyards, made this one of the most memorable sections of the journey. By late afternoon the famous skyline of San Gimignano appeared before us, its medieval towers rising dramatically above the surrounding hills. Colle Val d’Elsa and the Elsa River Our next destination was the delightful medieval town of Colle Val d’Elsa, where we stayed at the excellent Hotel La Cartiera Vecchia. The town itself receives far fewer tourists than neighbouring San Gimignano yet possesses tremendous charm and a long tradition of glassmaking. One of the highlights of the week came the following morning as we followed the River Elsa. We crossed rope bridges, stepped across river stones and admired crystal-clear blue-green waters coloured by nearby thermal springs. Waterfalls, fishing spots and shaded woodland created a magical landscape unlike anything else on the route. Along the way we stopped at family-run cafés and agriturismo restaurants where local hospitality matched the outstanding scenery. Monteriggioni and Siena Day four brought us to the magnificent fortified village of Monteriggioni, originally built to defend Siena. The forest approach echoed with the sound of thousands of crickets before we climbed into the medieval village for a welcome Italian ice cream. Nearby Abbadia Isola Monastery, dating from the 8th century, provided spectacular countryside views and remains an important retreat centre today. Our final destination was Siena, famous worldwide for the annual Palio horse race held in its remarkable Piazza del Campo. Unfortunately our last walking day ended dramatically as a thunderstorm swept across the Tuscan hills. Lightning forced our guide Ana to cancel the final section for safety reasons, and after sheltering beneath a farmhouse archway we eventually reached Siena by taxi. Despite the rain-soaked ending, it somehow provided a fitting conclusion to an unforgettable week of sunshine, history and spectacular scenery. Fellow Walkers Mary Hearne, originally from Rathgormack, County Waterford and now living in Dublin, described the Camino Ways tour as one of the best walking holidays she had experienced. Margaret Ward, originally from Kilkenny and now with The Irish Times, also thoroughly enjoyed the route and said she would happily return for another Italian walking adventure. Final Thoughts The St Francis Way offers everything you could wish for in a walking holiday — spectacular scenery, medieval villages, fascinating history, excellent food, wonderful wines and genuine Italian hospitality. Whether you are an experienced Camino walker or simply looking for a memorable active holiday, Tuscany delivers an unforgettable experience. More stories on Lucca, San Gimignano, Siena and Tuscany’s medieval villages will follow in future articles. Travel Information Getting There Aer Lingus flights to Pisa Guided tour organised by Camino Ways Tour leaders: Philip Cawley (Today FM) and Karl Bradshaw (Camino Ways) Useful Outbound Links Camino Ways: https://caminoways.com Via di Francesco: https://www.viadifrancesco.it Visit Tuscany: https://www.visittuscany.com Italia.it Tourism: https://www.italia.it

Europe, Germany, Travel Stories

Dordrecht, Holland: A Hidden Gem Beyond Amsterdam

This is a beautiful and historic city, not far from Rotterdam, they claim it is the oldest city with a charter in Holland, so similarly. Little war damage despite being an important port in the past,but Rotterdam was heavily bombed. If you want to see a small version of Amsterdam with canals, history and art, then this is an alternative and lower in cost ,easy to do day trips from here and have a base too with lower hotel costs. First Impressions & Tours We started with a walking tour with Pauli, a native of South Africa, followed by a pleasant boat trip along the canals into the old port, where you can see major shipping traffic heading for the Rhine and Germany. We finished at the excellent Dordrecht museum. Waterford has made great progress in recent years with its tourism offering and Dordrecht has a great heritage also. Getting Around & City Layout There is an old town, which looks very prosperous and suburbs, arriving by train, it is about 15 minute walk to the old city, check out the tourism office for detailed maps, giving the complexity it can be better than Google maps, noted out tech savvy son, who lives in Holland. The town hall is very well restored and there is a great network of streets, where living in the old port and town is popular. This creates vibrancy, living over the shop is trendy here even if the rooms are smaller. Architecture & Heritage The building heritage is strong and has the 8th most preservation orders in all of the country. Some of the streets lean inwards and are kept up by steel wall anchors if renovations are undertaken. The old port is turned into a marina for pleasure boats and is also a trendy place to live now for locals or commuters to Rotterdam just 20kw away by train. See some heritage boats too in he harbour, an old warehouse or two that date back several hundred years , impressive churches and town walls also with their gates and coats of arms . Religion & Historical Change The city became Protestant after the reformation and the former St. Mary’s Catholic Cathedral became a Dutch Reformed Church, with all the statues taken out and paintings removed to be stored elsewhere. In other cities they were wantonly destroyed. This was in the early 1500s,after Martin Luther broke from the Catholic Church, many Dutch also followed his new religion, but less support for it in South Holland. Flooding & Survival The city would also lose out to Rotterdam from the 1700s after some great floods killed a huge number of citizens. Today they still worry about floods and our guide told us that she can move to the attic if the flood sea waters rise to a level of 4 metres more than normal and be safe for a while.in 1953 over 1850 died in a flood that affected all the country and a new Delta plan and defences built. Trade, Rivers & Economy Today you can see the great waterways of the links to the Rivers of the Maas and Rhine with cargo ships and barges going to Germany inland and towards the sea in the other direction. This was a great trading city back in the day and wine was big business, like in Waterford, they had links to France. They have named a wine street in the port, there the buildings still have old wine cellars and signs for a Bordeaux house. Important schools and churches are here too, some are converted now for modern use as religious belief falls. Local Life & Shopping Trends We also noted an emerging trend in Holland for pre loved things as part of an eco trend. Vintage fashion has become very popular, plus old furniture and furnishings, household items and vinyl records are making a big comeback with 3 stores selling vinyls on the main shopping street, said a shop owner to us. The city is nice and laid back with a good atmosphere. Art & Cultural Heritage We saw the famous burial place in the Augustine Church on Voorstraat of Aelbert Cuyp 1620-1691, world renowned artist from here, we would see his paintings later. The city was also the location for the Dordrecht conference to settle the breakaway land of Holland after a long Battle with Spain in the 1500s. The Spanish and Habsburgians would rule here, up to then. Later invaders would be the French and Napoleon after 1790 to 1815 and then the Nazis from 1940-45, so the city had its share of invaders. Boat Tours & Living Experience The excellent boat tour at ten euro a head is good value for an hour, no English on the loudspeaker tannoy, but was still nice in cool fine autumn weather. You get to see how people live over looking the canals and old port. Many of the houses are being renovated too as this is valuable real estate, although parking is a big challenge. The nearby port of Rotterdam has many jobs and Dordrecht is a pleasant place to live. Rotterdam suffered huge war damage 1940-45, but not Dordrecht, hence it is a magnet for tourists today. They had invaders then but also the French in 1800 to 1814 under Napoleon. Food & Dining The city has good places to eat also like the restaurant Magazijn on the main Voorstraat, great airy place with high ceilings and good ventilation, nice for fish and a variety of foods, served efficiently. No mask wearing except on trains. This is close to the Canal water bus stop. Markets & Local Atmosphere For local shoppers like in many Dutch towns there is a fish and food market, many immigrants and locals come here for good value and a chat with traders. Many interesting individually owner local shops also, it took a while to get used to not wearing masks in shops. There is an old mint nearby, where

Europe, Travel Stories, United Kingdom

London Breaks: Theatre, Art and Culture in 2026

We travelled to London in early March for a trade show and took in a new theatrical experience at the New Canary Wharf theatre. This high-tech “Hunger Games” show for me was a step into the unknown and part of a new dystopian future. Named after the successful film version, the show has been on Broadway and opened at the new high-tech Canary Wharf theatre near the East London financial district. For more UK city break inspiration, read our guides to Paris spring breaks and Hamburg cultural weekends on the blog. Thames River Journey to Canary Wharf We went there on the new Thames river fast ferry service direct from Putney on the west side of the city close to Hammersmith, passing via Battersea, Westminster and Tower Bridge. The ferry costs are on the Oyster system and for around £11 sterling you get a great value photo tour of the Thames River in Central London. We enjoyed the show even if a little long, as it proved to be unique with stages moving and even some of the seating too. Many high-tech influences, great costumes, dance and music ensured great entertainment for this Sunday matinee performance off season. There was a varied audience of young and older folk, some scary bits too, and one felt like being at a modern version of a Roman amphitheatre as characters in the show battle it out to stay alive. There is a long interval. Useful Links Visit London: Visit London London Theatre Tickets: Official London Theatre Thames Clippers River Service: Uber Boat by Thames Clippers Brick Lane and Shoreditch Afterwards we took a train to near Brick Lane on the Docklands Railway. Brick Lane is famous for Asian food and Shoreditch is now a hip area. We had a drink in the pub Queen of Prussia beforehand and it proved a personal trip down memory lane in this ancient historical part of London, not far from the Tower of London. There is even a museum depicting the life of Jack the Ripper, in what were haunted streets of the past, many destroyed in the Blitz period. The modern skyscrapers were an earlier backdrop at Canary Wharf in what is a mini Manhattan or Wall Street in New York. This area is quiet at weekends and easy to explore. London Art Galleries and Museums The following days we would see Trafalgar Square, the Strand, Westminster area and St. James’s Park. Good exhibitions were on at the Courtauld Gallery, where there are amazing collections from the 19th-century French Impressionists with great works by Cézanne, Manet, Monet, Gauguin and Seurat. This was all for the bargain entry fee of around £8-10. Booking a time in advance is suggested to avoid queues. This was a new venue for me and is near Somerset House, famous for birth certs, and just a short walk from Whitehall and Trafalgar Square. A day later we got to the National Gallery, where there are similar pieces of world-class art to see and in this case all for free, although there are rumours of new charges in future years. The National Gallery has great art from Constable to Gainsborough, Dutch masters, as well as famous French Impressionist artists like Pissarro, Renoir, Claude Monet, Edgar Degas and many more. Useful Links The Courtauld Gallery The National Gallery London Tate Modern Tate Modern and London Culture Lots of cultural opportunities exist in central London. The Tate Modern had Londoner Tracey Emin and her themes from Margate seaside, while the old Tate Gallery at Millbank featured Turner and Constable too. Going around London, signing up for the Oyster Card means getting around is simple. A bank card can also be used but might include more exchange charges. Over at Westminster Square there were protests against the Commonwealth gathering of nations and the Monarchy. It all added to the international flavour of a world city, where all manners of opinions and politics exist. Where to Stay in London For a good value stay in the area try the Premier Inn Hub near Westminster and Victoria Station. Premier Inn at St. James’s Park has good value hotel rooms and a good breakfast. Lots of eating options and good pubs nearby including The Two Chairmen, The Feathers and The Buckingham Arms. Riviera is a great French restaurant while Italian restaurants nearby are generally good value, although some others are pricier. Leicester Square and the West End are not far away if you want to try Soho or Chinatown. Hotel and Travel Links Premier Inn London Hotels Transport for London Oyster Card Ticketmaster UK Final Thoughts on London Breaks Lots of great music and culture exist in London, as well as unique dining. Prices are now on a par with Dublin, so booking ahead with London theatre and concert listings is advised. Made Travel helped us out on our visit to the Hunger Games and last year for The Lion King. Your local favourite Waterford travel agent can also organise your London trip and often secure special hotel offers. London remains one of Europe’s leading city break destinations for theatre, museums, galleries, shopping and entertainment, with something new always waiting around the corner. Related Travel Guides For more regional travel inspiration, readers can also explore our guides to: Bradford City of Culture Beautiful Bath: A timeless Georgian Gem in Somerset

Europe, Travel Stories, United Kingdom

Armagh City: Northern Ireland’s Georgian Gem

A Surprising City Break Armagh City proved to be a wonderful surprise as a destination to visit. We have crossed the border many times over the years, but had never properly explored Armagh until it was recommended to us for its history, architecture and cultural importance. The city may still carry an image of cathedrals and prayer, known as the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, while also having experienced its share of political troubles during past generations. Yet today, Armagh has emerged renewed and revitalised through restoration and investment following the peace process. Settlement here dates back to the 5th century and St. Patrick himself, who was granted land for a church after reportedly curing a local chieftain’s family member. The city eventually received official city status in the 1990s and today has a population of approximately 15,000. Georgian Beauty and the Famous Mall Apart from our home city of Waterford, Armagh may well boast one of the finest Georgian malls in Ireland. The Mall — a huge green open space lined with trees — was originally used for horse racing before being converted for cricket and public recreation. Walking through this elegant area, one could easily imagine being in a historic English city. Many of the impressive Georgian buildings date from the late 1700s, when Church of Ireland Archbishop Robinson became not only an influential church figure but also a visionary city planner. Unlike Dublin, where many Georgian buildings were demolished, Armagh preserved much of its architectural heritage beautifully. For readers interested in historic European cities, you may also enjoy our feature onBeautiful Bath Travel Guide Charlemont Place overlooking the Mall contains some remarkable architecture, now occupied by professionals and businesses. Nearby are museums, churches and historic halls that reflect the city’s layered religious and political history. Walking Tours and City History One of the best ways to discover Armagh is through a guided walking tour. We joined former council worker and local historian Brian McDonald for a fascinating 90-minute tour of the city. Brian, also a fan of Waterford hurling, shared tremendous insight into Armagh’s history, restoration and renaissance. For organised tours:Donna Fox Tours The city has transformed dramatically since the Troubles. Streets once damaged by bombs and neglect have been restored using local limestone. Dobbin Street, once home to traditional farm markets, now features quirky gargoyles and public art inspired by medieval history and mythology. Property prices remain relatively affordable compared to many Irish cities, with much employment focused on agriculture and agri-business, while nearby Newry acts as a major commercial centre. Cathedrals, Religion and St. Patrick Armagh is famously known as the city of seven hills and is dominated by its two impressive St. Patrick’s Cathedrals. The Church of Ireland cathedral carries the older history, while the Catholic cathedral was built after the famine on a hill overlooking the city. Both offer magnificent views across the surrounding drumlin countryside. The Church of Ireland Gothic cathedral, rebuilt in the 1840s, stands proudly beside parkland and cultural buildings including the Market Place Theatre, visited recently by King Charles. Nearby stands the memorial to Brian Boru, whose remains were reportedly brought here after the Battle of Clontarf. Visitors can also follow parts of the famous St. Patrick’s Trail stretching towards Downpatrick and the Antrim hills. More information:Visit Armagh Tourism Food, Music and Local Culture Armagh has a surprisingly lively food and music scene. One popular recommendation is Uluru Bar & Grill, which even serves kangaroo alongside Malaysian seafood dishes and international cuisine. Other recommended dining spots include: Embers Mulberry Bistro Red Neds Callan Bar at Armagh City Hotel Traditional music remains an important part of city life. The famous “Hole in the Wall” pub is highly regarded, while local piping clubs continue strong traditions in Irish music and instrument making. A Dublin friend later remarked how impressed he was by Armagh’s traditional music scene, describing it as one of the hidden gems of the island. A City Moving Forward Armagh experienced terrible violence during the 1970s and 1980s, with bombings, sectarian attacks and political division deeply affecting the city. Yet modern Armagh feels welcoming, peaceful and optimistic. Locals proved exceptionally friendly during our stay. Even when asking for directions inside Devlins Bar, several people immediately offered assistance and local recommendations. Armagh city has clearly undergone a renaissance and deserves much greater recognition as a destination on the island of Ireland. Interested in Irish cultural destinations may also enjoy:Achill Island Travel Series Armagh Apples and Cider Outside the city we visited the Troughton apple farm on the Portadown road, producers of the well-known Armagh cider sold across Ireland. Armagh remains Ireland’s leading apple-growing county thanks to its unique microclimate and sheltered drumlin landscape near Lough Neagh. The family-run farm offers tours, cider tastings and a wonderful farm shop selling juices, dry ciders and local produce. We sampled their excellent apple juice while meeting visitors from America touring the region. Where to Stay in Armagh City Hotel Recommendation Armagh City Hotel Comfortable rooms, excellent breakfast and carvery dining, leisure facilities and ample parking in a very central location. Official website:Armagh City Hotel Drinks and Food Recommendations Pubs Hole in the Wall Devlins Bar Shambles Bar Restaurants Uluru Keegan’s Bar & Restaurant Callan Bar Getting There from Waterford By car, Armagh is approximately 300km from Waterford and around a three-hour drive via the M9, M50 and M1/A1 through Newry. Public transport options include: Train to Newry via Dublin, then bus to Armagh Bus from Dublin Airport on the X4 route towards Derry stopping in Armagh Final Thoughts Armagh combines Georgian elegance, religious heritage, excellent music, local food and fascinating history in a compact and welcoming city. It feels peaceful today, while still honestly reflecting on its complicated past. We left convinced that Armagh deserves far more attention from visitors across Ireland and beyond — and we certainly plan to return.

Europe, France, Travel Stories

Lourmarin Provence: France’s Hidden Hilltop Gem

A Charming Village in the Heart of Provence The Luberon region is in inner Provence and forms part of the famous Côtes du Rhône wine route, one of France’s top-class wine regions. You will find fascinating places like the beautiful village of Lourmarin, regarded as one of the prettiest villages in France and one of the highlights of the remarkable Luberon region in the Vaucluse Department. Not the easiest destination to reach without private transport, but it has tremendous character and atmosphere. The well-preserved old market town boasts a wonderful restored château overlooking the village. Visitors should make time to visit the castle, now managed by a family foundation after being rescued many years ago by a philanthropic businessman from Lyon following the destruction of World War One. Today, the château hosts concerts and cultural events and tells fascinating stories of the area’s past. History, Religion and the Luberon Mountains Surprisingly, Lourmarin was once a Protestant village prior to the reign of Francis I, when Baron d’Oppède launched attacks against the Waldensians of the Luberon during the religious conflicts of the era. Today, both Protestant and Catholic heritage remain visible in the village — unusual in much of France. Our adventurous drive there took us through the vibrant regional town of Carpentras and earlier through Vaison-la-Romaine, where Roman ruins, chapels and cathedral cloisters still survive from ancient times. The roads gradually became steeper and narrower as we climbed mountain passes near Mont Ventoux, deep within the Luberon National Park. The drive at times felt similar to the mountain roads of Kerry or the Comeraghs in Ireland. Hotel Le Moulin and Provençal Hospitality Hotel Le Moulin proved to be a real revelation — a luxury four-star hotel created from a beautifully restored mill and open for less than a decade. Guests can enjoy gardens shaded by plane trees, an outdoor pool and views across to the Château de Lourmarin. The hotel is owned by the French hospitality group Beaumier Hotels, which operates several boutique hotels across Provence and the Alps. The atmosphere was warm and international. One staff member had previously owned a pub in Camden, London before the pandemic, while others spoke several languages fluently. Dining outdoors on a warm Provençal evening, guests enjoyed fine meats, regional wines and excellent service. Among the visitors was a sophisticated American group, some with Irish roots, touring hidden regions of France before continuing onwards to Lyon for fine dining experiences. Markets, Wine and Village Life Friday morning brought the lively village market of Lourmarin to life. Like many Provençal villages, the weekly market remains a centre of local life, filled with flowers, cheeses, olives, fresh produce and artisan goods. We also met a friendly local wine merchant operating from restored wine cellars within the château grounds. He played Irish music for us, offered local cheeses and even explained how he now uses AI tools to help market his business online. The Luberon region is excellent for: Hiking Cycling Vineyard tours Olive farm visits Scenic road trips Recommended wine estates include: Fontenille in Lauris La Verrerie in Puget St. Pierre de Méjans Fonvert in Lourmarin Dining recommendations include Recreation in Lourmarin and La Cuisine d’Amélie near Lauris. Useful tourism information can be found at:Luberon Tourism Official Site Albert Camus and Literary Heritage The Nobel Prize-winning French-Algerian writer Albert Camus made his home in Lourmarin and is buried nearby in the local cemetery. Known for works such as The Stranger and La Peste, Camus reportedly loved the region because it reminded him of his native Algeria. His former house still stands in the village and his family continue to preserve his literary legacy. Readers interested in cultural travel may also enjoy our feature on Bayreuth and Wagner Opera. Exploring More of Provence After Lourmarin, we travelled onwards towards Avignon and Aix-en-Provence, with Aix perhaps edging ahead as our personal favourite. Nearby villages such as Bonnieux are also highly recommended. On the return journey towards Avignon, Cavaillon makes a worthwhile stop for its synagogue, cathedral and excellent local dining options. Final Thoughts Overall, the Luberon region whetted the appetite to explore even more of Provence. September proved an excellent off-peak time to visit, while June to August can become extremely hot. Compared to the crowded Riviera coastline, the Luberon offers a quieter and more authentic side of southern France — filled with vineyards, hilltop villages, local markets and stunning mountain scenery. For travellers seeking a more relaxed and cultured French escape, Lourmarin deserves a place high on the travel list. Related Travel Guides For more regional travel inspiration, readers can also explore our guides to: Saint Emilion Wine Escape. Paris Spring Break 2026: Culture, Food & Hidden Gems Why Nantes Is France’s Most Underrated City Break

Europe, France, Travel Stories

Saint-Émilion Wine Escape: Bordeaux’s Hidden Gem

Famous Worldwide for Wine Production Saint-Émilion is one of the most famous wine destinations in the world and a perfect escape from Bordeaux . Bordeaux is probably one of the most famous places in the world for the production and sale of wine. The port of Bordeaux exported the region’s wines to both the old and new world. The famous claret comes from here and some of the greatest red wines in the world are produced in this region. The unique climate, rain and sunshine, together with the rich alluvial soil from the Gironde estuary and top-quality grapes, create the famous Bordeaux “superior quality”. Getting to Saint-Émilion The local tourist office offers organized wine tours for full or half days at approximately 89 euro, including transport, a light lunch and vineyard visits. Unfortunately, these were fully booked on our arrival, so we decided to take the train journey to the lovely town of Saint-Émilion, famous for its beautiful white sandstone buildings. Just 45 minutes from Bordeaux main station, Saint-Émilion is easily reached via the Bordeaux tram and rail system. A return day ticket costs approximately 15 euros. We met some Irish visitors who rented a car but found the costs expensive. It is often better to organize tours before leaving Ireland through the Gironde Tourist Board or travel agents such as Harvey Travel or Strand Travel. Walking Through the Vineyards There is a long uphill walk from the train station into the town itself, although taxis are available. Many visitors prefer the scenic route through the vineyards, stopping at wineries along the way. Some of the train travelers we met did exactly the same. This is also an excellent area for: Hiking Cycling Guided vineyard walks Wine tasting experiences From mid-May to mid-September, vineyard walking tours are especially popular. Many locals recommend late summer as one of the best times to visit. Exploring the Medieval Town Saint-Émilion offers much more than wine. Along the picturesque streets you can: Visit art galleries Browse craft shops Explore wine merchants Discover historic churches and cloisters The town has many wine shops with export experience and several owners know Ireland well, particularly Cork and Galway. There is also: The Collegiate Church The Monolithic Church bell tower The Cordeliers Monastery and cloister The King’s Tower (Château du Roy) The steep cobbled streets require care, but the views and atmosphere make the climb worthwhile. Wine Museums & French Heritage At the top of the hill you can visit a wine museum explaining how Bordeaux wines are produced. Nearby, we discovered a wine and crystal shop selling Baccarat crystal. The underground pottery museum is another hidden gem, showcasing ceramics dating back to Roman times and offering insight into French pottery history. Visitors can also explore: The Wine Grower’s Museum (Ecomuseum of Libournais) Historic wine cellars Roman and medieval heritage sites The Irish Connection to Bordeaux Wines We know some visitors, who have gone to visit Lynch Bages and the Dillon estates, both with strong Irish connections to the Bordeaux region. The Phelan family came from Clonmel and settled in the area in the late 1700s. The business later became known as Phelan Segur , located in St. Estèphe , just north of Bordeaux. The Kirwans and Bartons are other famous Irish names associated with vineyards in the Bordeaux region. Many original Irish families intermarried with the French over time and, in some cases, the family names evolved or changed on the vineyards. Now, the increased wealth of modern Ireland has also seen new Irish investment in vineyards, much like the Americans and Germans did in previous decades. The Cross family from Northern Ireland purchased Chateau de la Ligne , while Lochlann Quinn , brother of former Irish politician Ruairi Quinn , owned the well-known Chateau Fieuzal vineyard. These vineyards can often be visited, although it is best to check with the local tourist board and make advance bookings. A day of vineyard walks, wine tasting and a quality French meal can make for an ideal escape from Bordeaux city as part of a longer weekend break. Visitors can also learn about wine tasting and perhaps discover the historic Irish links to wine through the story of the “Wild Geese” — Irish families who left Ireland after the Battle of Kinsale and later periods of religious persecution. It is a wonderful region to reflect and relax as you travel back towards Bordeaux through acres of ripening vineyards. We had an Irish guide the previous day who explained how many Irish families settled in this region from the 1700s onwards, often after military service in France, later purchasing vineyards and developing successful wine businesses. That tradition continues today. Wine Tasting & Local Food Bordeaux is renowned for its red wines, but you will also find excellent white wines, both dry and sweet. Popular dry white grapes include Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, while regions such as Entre-Deux-Mers, Côtes de Bourg and Côtes de Blaye are also well known. The sweet wines of Bordeaux are famous too, particularly Sauternes and Barsac, which make excellent dessert wines, along with Graves Supérieures and Sainte-Foy wines. Exploring the Medoc Region While we focused mainly on reds and Saint-Émilion, a trip to the Medoc was also highly recommended for serious wine enthusiasts, although our schedule did not allow enough time. This area lies north of Bordeaux near the mouth of the River Gironde and is synonymous with red wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon grapes thriving on gravel-rich soils. Bus No. 705 from Bordeaux Quinconces bus station will bring visitors towards the Medoc and the famous Chateau Margaux area, home to some of the world’s most celebrated wine estates. For more details see: Pauillac Medoc Tourism There is also a train service from Bordeaux Saint-Jean station, approximately 35–40 minutes away. Back in Bordeaux Back at Bordeaux-Saint-Jean Station , a splendid building and a reminder of another era, it was time to board the busy tram and return to the hotel to rest the legacy and

Europe, Germany, Travel Stories

Bayreuth 2026: Germany’s Opera City You Must Visit

Bayreuth is a city famous for opera and the legacy of Richard Wagner. Like Verona in Italy or La Scala, Bayreuth attracts a global audience, but of a more unique and specialised variety. We were part of an invited international group from Europe, Asia, the Middle East and the USA to review German tourism and explore music and culture. First Impressions We were hosted in a fourth-generation family brewery that has expanded into the hotel business, combining hospitality with artistic street art across buildings and interiors. It would be like commissioning artists from Waterford Walls to transform a modern hotel — and it works extremely well. Bayreuth itself has strong street art culture, often reflecting musical themes and opera characters, with some works sponsored by galleries from Munich. This medium-sized city (population approx. 72,000) has a global reputation thanks to its dedicated Wagner opera house. History & Wartime Legacy Unlike Regensburg, Bayreuth suffered damage towards the end of World War II. Wagner’s association with Adolf Hitler, who attended performances here, contributed to the city becoming a target. Local accounts suggest fires during the Allied advance caused additional destruction beyond bombing. The region also had links to figures such as Rudolf Hess. Today, Bayreuth openly acknowledges this past and has moved forward as a welcoming international cultural destination. The Wagner Experience The Bayreuth Festspielhaus is purpose-built for Wagner’s works. Key highlights: Timber construction for superior acoustics Hidden orchestra pit Innovative stage mechanics Performances can last up to six hours with intervals. We toured backstage, saw the orchestra pit and learned how acoustics differ significantly from modern concrete theatres. We also met performers and members of the press, including BBC critic Michael White, who discussed the Wagner family’s continued role in the festival. Opera Culture & Atmosphere Opera in Bayreuth is more than entertainment — it is a culture. Visitors dress for the occasion, study the storylines in advance and fully immerse themselves in the experience. Advice from performers: Read the opera storyline beforehand Listen to the music in advance (YouTube is useful) Language is not a barrier if prepared The festival runs from late July to late August and sells out months in advance. 2026 marks the 150th anniversary of Wagner opera in Bayreuth — demand will be exceptionally high. Around the City Bayreuth is compact and easy to explore. Highlights include: Street art across buildings A lively university presence Outdoor swimming parks accessible by bus Cultural festivals (we experienced an Italian-themed event) Even an Irish connection exists at Dubliner Bayreuth, offering live music. Food & Dining The region offers exceptional cuisine. A standout experience was dining at: Posthotel Alexander Herrmann Led by Alexander Herrmann Highlights: Two Michelin stars Multi-course dining experience Strong regional focus The setting included live music and even service from the kitchen itself — a memorable experience. Beer & Brewery Culture Bayreuth has a deep brewing tradition, once home to over 200 breweries. We stayed at: Liebesbier Hotel Part of Maisel Brewery Owner Jeff Maisel explained the shift toward tourism and diversification. Features include: Craft beers and IPA Brewery tours Growing non-alcoholic beer market Nearby Nature & Region The surrounding area, known as Franconian Switzerland, offers: Rolling hills Lakes such as Fichtelsee Scenic countryside Where to Stay Recommended: Liebesbier Hotel Posthotel Alexander Herrmann Book early during festival season. Getting There Bayreuth is accessible via: Nuremberg Munich Rail connections are efficient and reliable. Day Trips / Nearby Places Bayreuth works well within a wider Bavarian itinerary: Bamberg – historic old town Regensburg – medieval architecture Nuremberg – culture and history Rothenburg ob der Tauber – fairytale setting You may also enjoy our Paris, Ljubljana, and Zagreb travel guides for similar cultural experiences. Final Thoughts Bayreuth is a cultural destination unlike any other. It blends: World-class opera Deep history Modern creativity Excellent food and drink For travellers seeking something different, it delivers a rich and memorable European experience.  

Europe, France, Travel Stories

Paris Spring Short Breaks 2026: Hidden Gems, Food & Culture

We were recently back in Paris for the rugby international. Sadly, the match proved a heavy defeat for Ireland, but on the positive side it was a welcome return to the City of Light. Having briefly passed through Paris in 2022 and during the 2016 soccer championships, it was great to properly revisit one of Europe’s greatest capitals. From the restored Notre-Dame Cathedral to riverside walks along the Seine, lively markets and world-class museums, Paris remains ideal for a short spring break. Getting There We travelled with Dawson Travel in a package from Cork Airport to Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, with coach transfer to our hotel in Montparnasse. Paris is easy to reach from Ireland with direct flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast through multiple airlines. The city’s second airport, Paris Orly Airport, is often closer to the centre. Useful booking resources: Ryanair Aer Lingus Air France Booking.com First Impressions Paris remains one of Europe’s most exciting and multicultural cities. The restored Notre-Dame, busy boulevards, elegant bridges and packed cafés all create that unmistakable Paris atmosphere. Even on a short stay, the city offers history, culture, food and endless places to walk and explore. Where We Stayed – Montparnasse We stayed in Pullman Paris Montparnasse. Montparnasse may not be the Champs-Élysées or Latin Quarter, but in many ways it is better — more local, better value and full of authentic neighbourhood life. Historically this district attracted many Bretons arriving from western France due to the nearby railway station. Today it is diverse, lively and well connected, yet still feels safer and calmer than some larger city districts. Things To Do Edgar Quinet Market One highlight was the excellent Edgar Quinet Market near the metro station of the same name. This traditional market offers fruit, vegetables, meats, cheeses and crafts. It is a feast for the eyes and ideal for bringing home quality French produce. Notre-Dame & Latin Quarter We visited the restored Notre-Dame Cathedral and nearby Shakespeare and Company, where there was still a queue to enter. The nearby St Michel area is lively, full of restaurants, cafés and nightlife. Reservations: To cut down on waiting times, you are highly encouraged to book a free time slot via the official Notre-Dame de Paris Website. Tickets are released 24 to 48 hours in advance. Luxembourg Gardens The elegant Luxembourg Gardens remain one of the best places in Paris for a peaceful walk. Seine Walks & Boat Tours Walking beside the Seine is one of the great Paris pleasures. We passed the historic riverside booksellers and the departure points for Bateaux Mouches cruises. Boat tours from Pont Alma remain excellent value and give a fresh perspective on the city. Museums & Culture Musée d’Orsay Our main cultural stop was Musée d’Orsay, still one of the best-value museums in Europe. For around €16 (book ahead), visitors can enjoy one of the world’s greatest Impressionist collections. Masterpieces by: Vincent van Gogh Claude Monet Édouard Manet A must for any Paris visit. Evening Jazz Later we enjoyed live jazz in a historic wine cellar venue near Rue de Rivoli — a reminder that Paris remains one of Europe’s great music cities. Food & Dining Montparnasse offers superb dining options: Traditional French brasseries Breton crêperies Vietnamese restaurants Italian food Moroccan couscous venues Classic café stops include: Le Dôme Café La Rotonde Nearby streets like Rue de Vaugirard and Cherche-Midi also offer excellent choices. Writers & Literary Paris Montparnasse has long literary links. Irish writer Samuel Beckett once lived in the area and reportedly frequented Le Falstaff, where Guinness is still available alongside French and Belgian beers. For book lovers, visit: Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore Shakespeare and Company Getting Around Paris transport is now highly digital. Use: IDF Mobilités app MyNavigo digital ticketing Metro operator RATP Single journeys start around €2.55, with discounts for bundles. The Metro remains one of Europe’s best urban transport systems. Practical Tips Spring is one of the best times to visit Book museums online in advance Stay in Montparnasse for value and convenience Use Metro apps instead of paper tickets Walk as much as possible — Paris rewards walkers Final Thoughts Paris remains one of the world’s great short-break cities. Whether you want art, food, markets, music, literature or iconic sights, the city still delivers in every season. Even after many visits, Paris always gives you something new. A marvellous few days in the City of Light. You may also enjoy: Lyon Travel Guide Nantes Travel Guide Beautiful Bath Travel Guide Hamburg Weekend Break Bologna City Break Guide Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris

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