Europe

Europe, Travel Stories

Breda, Holland: Military History, Irish Connections

 Breda is a fascinating Dutch city just over the Belgian border, north of Antwerp and Brussels. While it may not appear on every holiday hit list, we found plenty of intriguing things to see and discover. Breda has a fascinating combination of military history, old churches, castles, town walls, traditional trading areas and a modern, progressive outlook. For visitors from Ireland, there are also some surprising connections. During our visit, we discovered how Breda’s history is linked to King William III of Orange, while conversations with our local student guide gave us an opportunity to explain some of the continuing political and historical sensitivities surrounding King Billy in Ireland. The city also impressed us with its approach to sustainability. The Stek Social Enterprise project showed how vacant land could be transformed into a thriving community of recycling, repair, restoration and creative businesses. Breda is therefore a city where the past and the future sit comfortably alongside one another. Getting There Getting to Breda is relatively straightforward. Breda is well connected by rail and is on the railway route linking major Dutch and Belgian cities, including Amsterdam, Antwerp and Brussels. For Irish visitors, flying to Eindhoven provides another option, with onward travel by train to Breda. The city’s location makes it particularly suitable for combining with other destinations in the Netherlands or Belgium. Breda can also work well as part of a wider trip incorporating Antwerp, Brussels, Dordrecht or Amsterdam. Exploring the Destination Breda has a well-preserved historic centre with a mixture of old streets, churches, trading areas and attractive public spaces. The city has a long tradition and has been important throughout the centuries. Locals are proud of their heritage, while the modern outer areas are typically Dutch in character, with organised streets and excellent cycle paths. There is good-quality shopping in the centre, along with cafés, restaurants and places to relax. One of the most interesting aspects of Breda is the way historic areas have been adapted for modern use. Some river areas that were previously covered over for car parking have been reopened as walkways, creating more attractive spaces along the water with shops and pedestrian areas. The city also has a number of well-preserved churches and historic buildings that continue to be restored, despite relatively low levels of church attendance among younger generations. Our local guide, Joyce, was a young hospitality and tourism student with excellent English. Her college also welcomes international students and has exchange connections with Ireland. Visitors can also discover a beguinage, an old religious community and garden dating back to the 1400s. These communities are particularly associated with Belgium, so finding one in Breda was another interesting discovery. History & Culture Breda has a strong military heritage. The city has a castle, historic town walls and forts that illustrate its strategic importance over the centuries. The two towers along the river are symbols of the city’s historic past and liberation, while an old armoury provides another reminder of Breda’s military connections. Some local families still have links with the military, and there is a military training fort in the area. Some residents have served overseas, including in the Balkans and Iraq. Outside the Cathedral, near the old town wall, there was historically an execution area where hangings took place hundreds of years ago. Breda and the House of Orange For Irish visitors, one of the most unexpected discoveries was Breda’s connection with William III of Orange. King William III is a controversial historical figure in Ireland because of his victory at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. During our visit, we explained to our student guide how this history remains controversial in Ireland and how Orange traditions continue to feature in Northern Ireland. We also discussed the tradition of bonfires and the burning of effigies associated with some communities and commemorations. Our Dutch hosts found some of these continuing traditions rather surprising. Religion itself is much less prominent in everyday life for many younger people in the Netherlands. Breda traditionally had a strong Catholic identity, while nearby Dordrecht became associated with Protestantism. The contrast between the two cities provides an interesting insight into the religious history of the Netherlands. Food & Dining Breda has a good selection of restaurants, cafés and food venues. Humphreys Restaurant, close to the market, was recommended during our visit and is a good option for those looking for a traditional restaurant experience. For a wider selection, the Breda Food Hall offers multiple food choices, including different ethnic cuisines. Food halls have become increasingly popular in Dutch cities and are a good way to sample different styles of food in one location. For Irish visitors looking for somewhere familiar, O’Meara’s Irish Bar is a good place to watch matches and enjoy Irish-style sessions and hospitality. The Stek project also had an excellent sourdough bakery. The bakery used repurposed older ovens and was extremely popular on the day we visited, with a queue forming for bread. Things to Do Explore Breda’s Historic Centre Take time to walk through the old town and discover its historic buildings, churches, squares and streets. Discover the Military Heritage Breda’s castle, fortifications, armoury and town walls provide an insight into the city’s strategic importance and military past. Visit the Churches and Cathedral Breda has several impressive religious buildings, including its Cathedral, which continues to be carefully maintained and restored. Explore the Beguinage The old beguinage and its gardens provide a peaceful glimpse into the city’s religious and social history. Enjoy the Shopping Breda has good-quality shopping throughout the city centre, making it a pleasant destination for a leisurely day of exploring. Discover Stek Social Enterprise One of the highlights of our visit was Stek, an unusual community of recycling, repair and creative businesses. This deserves a story of its own. Stek Social Enterprise: A Success Story in Breda One of the most impressive discoveries in Breda was Stek Social Enterprise, a former vacant area near the old port that had been controlled by

Europe, Travel Stories, United Kingdom

Durham City Break: Cathedral, Castle and Riverside Walks

Durham is a city that rewards a little time. Its cathedral and castle rise above the River Wear, while below them you will find riverside walks, independent shops, a covered market and plenty of places to stop for a meal. We found it a calmer contrast to nearby Newcastle, with enough history and character to make an overnight stay worthwhile. The university gives the city a lively atmosphere, but there are also quiet corners where you can simply enjoy the view. Our visit in April 2025 happened to coincide with the Royal Maundy service at Durham Cathedral. We had booked a few weeks ahead, without realising quite how busy the city would be that day. It added an unexpected royal occasion to a trip that already had plenty to offer. Getting There Durham makes a convenient stop when exploring north-east England. Newcastle is a short train journey away, so the two cities can easily be combined in one trip. If arriving through Newcastle Airport, plan your onward connection to Newcastle Central Station and then the train to Durham. Check flight availability, rail services and connection times for your travel dates before booking. Once in Durham, we explored much of the centre on foot. Allow time for the hills, particularly when heading up towards the cathedral and castle. Comfortable shoes are useful for both the historic streets and riverside paths. Exploring the Destination Durham Market Hall One of our first stops was the indoor market, where the variety made it worth a proper browse. During our visit, stalls offered books, vinyl records, crafts, musical instruments, vintage clothing and hobby supplies. It was the sort of place where you could go in looking for nothing in particular and still find something interesting. We stopped for deli snacks before continuing through the city. The market made a pleasant introduction to Durham beyond its best-known landmarks. A Cruise on the River Wear Visit County Durham arranged a trip for us on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser, boarding near Elvet Bridge. This was one of the highlights of our stay. From the water, you get a different impression of Durham, with views towards the cathedral, castle and bridges. Our guide mixed local history with entertaining stories about student life and the city’s characters. It was a relaxing way to understand how the river has helped shape Durham. The cathedral and castle together form the Durham Castle and Cathedral UNESCO World Heritage Site. Seeing their setting from below makes it easy to appreciate why this part of the city is so special. For current sailings and booking arrangements, check the Prince Bishop River Cruiser information before travelling. Durham Cathedral After the boat trip, we made our way uphill to the cathedral. The King and Queen had attended the Royal Maundy service on 17 April 2025, and we were able to enter after the service. The flowers, the presentation of the building and the atmosphere made it a memorable occasion. Inside, the scale of the cathedral is impressive. We spent time looking at the stained glass, sculpture and tributes to St Cuthbert. There is a great deal to take in, so this is somewhere to explore slowly. The cathedral remains a place of worship and pilgrimage as well as a major visitor attraction. At the time of this update, general admission is free, with donations encouraged. Check separately for any ticketed activities and changes to visitor access around services or events. See Durham Cathedral’s visitor information when planning your visit. Durham Castle and Palace Green Close to the cathedral, Palace Green provides another opportunity to enjoy Durham’s historic setting. The castle was closed to visitors on the day we were there, so we admired it from outside. Its origins go back to 1072, and it remains part of university life today. Guided tours are the main way to explore the interior. If the castle is high on your list, check availability in advance rather than assuming you can walk in on arrival. The library and museum collections around Palace Green also give you reasons to spend longer in this part of the city. We did not manage to see everything on this visit. History & Culture Durham’s identity brings together religious heritage, university life and the mining communities of the surrounding county. Inside the cathedral, the miners’ memorial was particularly moving. It was a reminder of the lives lost in the pits and of an industry that shaped generations of families. We noticed Irish names among those remembered. The Durham Miners’ Gala, also known as the Big Meeting, reflects the continuing importance of that heritage. Anyone planning a visit around the event should check the current programme and make accommodation arrangements ahead of time. For us, this combination of grand buildings and working lives gave Durham more depth than a simple sightseeing stop. Food & Dining The market was a good starting point for a snack, but we also enjoyed exploring the cafés and restaurants near the river. Around the Framwellgate and riverside areas, we found places to sit, eat and take in the view. Some of the newer development blended pleasantly with the older city, giving these areas a welcoming feel. We had an Italian meal that we felt offered good value, and there were other dining choices nearby. Rather than filling every hour with attractions, it was enjoyable to leave time for a meal and a riverside break. Things to Do Walk Beside the River After visiting the cathedral, head back towards the water. We enjoyed the change of pace and the different views of the city from its riverside paths. Browse the Market and Independent Shops Allow time to look beyond the main landmarks. The market and smaller shops were part of what made our visit enjoyable. Explore More of Durham’s Museums We missed the Oriental Museum on this occasion. It is one to consider when planning a longer stay, alongside the collections around Palace Green. Check current opening information before making a

Europe, Travel Stories

Hay-on-Wye: The World Book Town of Wales

  A recent visit to Wales saw us taking in the coastline, but on a wet day you need a few other options, so we decided to take the road inland. We headed towards the inland town of Llandeilo, just off the A40, on our way towards the West Midlands of England and Birmingham. Last year we passed this way but did not stop. This time Llandeilo became our base, and it proved to be a charming town on the River Tywi, which eventually flows towards the sea near Swansea. From Llandeilo, we set off on a scenic drive across the Brecon Beacons before eventually reaching the English border town of Hay-on-Wye. Sadly for us, the weather was not suitable for venturing into the Brecon Beacons hills, but we did manage to explore the world-famous book town of Hay-on-Wye. And what a place it is. Hay-on-Wye would certainly lift your spirits. It is an intriguing little town full of culture, learning, books and history, with the River Wye nearby forming part of the border between Wales and England. Getting There Hay-on-Wye is a destination where having a car is particularly useful. There is no railway station in Hay-on-Wye. The nearest major railway connection is at Hereford, with bus connections onwards to Hay. For visitors travelling from Ireland, travelling by car via the Rosslare–Fishguard ferry provides a practical way to reach Wales. The drive also allows you to explore some of the smaller towns and scenic routes along the way. For our journey, Llandeilo provided a good base before travelling across the Brecon Beacons towards Hay-on-Wye. The route itself is part of the experience. Exploring the Destination Hay-on-Wye is one of those places where you can easily spend several hours wandering around without following a particular plan. The town is small, with a population of around 2,000, but it offers an extraordinary amount for its size. There are attractive old buildings, independent shops, cafés, restaurants, antique shops and, most famously, an extraordinary collection of bookshops. The town attracts visitors from Britain and around the world, with people of many different ages and nationalities arriving for books, music, talks, festivals and cultural events. Hay Castle Over the centuries, Hay’s strategic position resulted in numerous battles and conflicts, particularly around Hay Castle. Today the castle has been restored and provides a fascinating place to explore the town’s history. There is exhibition space, information about the area’s past, a café and parkland. There is also a convenient car park nearby, along with the local tourism information centre. The tourism office can provide information about accommodation, including bed and breakfasts. The River Wye The town sits close to the River Wye, which forms part of the border between Wales and England. This borderland location has helped shape Hay’s history over many centuries. Today, however, visitors are more likely to cross the border in search of books than battles. History & Culture Hay-on-Wye’s cultural identity is now firmly connected with books. The town’s transformation into a book destination began in the 1960s and has developed into one of the most unusual tourism success stories in Wales. The Hay Festival, which began in the 1980s, helped establish the town internationally as a centre for literature and ideas. The festival attracts writers, readers, artists, academics and visitors from around the world. If you plan to visit during the festival, booking accommodation well in advance is essential. For anyone who loves books, Hay can feel like heaven. You can spend hours moving from one second-hand bookshop to another, discovering books that you may not have seen for years. In today’s increasingly digital world, there is something particularly enjoyable about browsing physical books. The experience of looking through shelves, finding unexpected titles and chatting to booksellers is very different from shopping online. The Bookshops of Hay-on-Wye The town’s greatest attraction is undoubtedly its bookshops. One of the best known is Richard Booth’s Bookshop, established in 1962. Located on Lion Street, it has become an institution in Hay-on-Wye. Some shops also buy books, so if you are bringing a car, you could potentially return home with a very different collection from the one you arrived with. There are also specialist shops selling sheet music, music books, records and other musical material. Antique and antiquarian books can be found throughout the town. There are even unusual accommodation options connected with the book culture. One bed and breakfast is called The Rest for the Tired, while other establishments combine books and accommodation in imaginative ways. For book lovers, Hay is much more than a place to buy a book. It is an experience. Food & Dining Hay-on-Wye has a good selection of cafés, pubs and restaurants for a town of its size. It is well worth staying overnight rather than simply making a short stop. The town has a lively cultural atmosphere, and there can be music and other events taking place during the evening. The historic pubs also add to the atmosphere. The Black Swan is an old-style pub with a history dating back centuries. The surrounding area also has plenty of traditional Welsh and British dining options. Things to Do Browse the Bookshops This is the obvious starting point. Give yourself plenty of time because there are far more books than you might expect. Visit Hay Castle Explore the recently restored castle, exhibitions and grounds while learning more about the area’s turbulent border history. Explore the Independent Shops Hay has much more than books, with antiques, records, music, gifts and specialist shops. Attend the Hay Festival The annual literary festival is one of the town’s biggest events and attracts an international audience. Book well ahead if you intend to attend. Explore the Welsh Borders Hay’s location makes it an excellent base for exploring both Wales and the English border counties. Visit Brecon On the way to Hay, Brecon is worth a stop. The town has attractive shopping streets, a riverside promenade, historic buildings, a cathedral and the remains of an

Europe, Ireland, Travel Stories

Belmullet & Erris, North Mayo: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Edge

We recently had an interesting visit to North Mayo, with our destination being Belmullet and Erris. The scenery here is extraordinary and the area is so far away from Ireland’s east coast that not too many people make the journey. In terms of remoteness and wildness, Erris reminded us of Donegal. It is a part of Ireland where the landscape is still a major part of the experience. Erris is also a Gaeltacht area, although we were told locally that some parts of the peninsula are not fully Irish-speaking. The area is relatively underdeveloped and laid-back, but that remoteness comes with a price: it can be difficult to get to. From Waterford, we would allow around five hours by car, travelling via Tuam, the motorway from Limerick, Knock and Ballina before continuing for another 30 kilometres or so towards Belmullet. But once you arrive, you understand why the journey is worthwhile. There is a sense that Erris has developed its own identity because of its isolation. The area’s remoteness helped preserve the Irish language and meant that, historically, it was not considered to be of great strategic importance. Yet that same remoteness has also produced some extraordinary stories. Getting There For us, the most practical way to reach Belmullet and Erris was by car. From Waterford, the journey takes approximately five hours, depending on traffic and stops. The route takes you towards Tuam and across the west of Ireland before continuing through the Knock and Ballina areas and then onwards towards Belmullet. It is a long journey from the southeast, but the roads have improved considerably over the years. For anyone travelling from elsewhere in Ireland, Ballina provides an important gateway to North Mayo. Once you reach Erris, having a car is particularly useful because many of the attractions are spread across a large peninsula. The distances can be deceptive. You can drive for quite some time while feeling that you are travelling through an almost completely empty landscape. That is part of the attraction. Exploring the Destination Erris is one of those places where the landscape itself becomes the main attraction. The Atlantic is never far away, and there are beaches, cliffs, sea stacks, blow holes and dramatic coastal views throughout the peninsula. At times, you can almost feel as if you are on an island. The comparison with Achill Island is understandable, although Erris is not actually an island. There is even a sense of local rivalry between different parts of Mayo, just as you can encounter on Achill. The peninsula is remarkably long and has an abundance of beaches and coastal scenery. The Atlantic can be rough here, producing enormous swells. We even saw local students from the Uisce Irish school swimming and surfing near the pier, a reminder that people living here are very much accustomed to the power of the sea. Black Sod Lighthouse One of the most fascinating places to visit is Black Sod Lighthouse. The lighthouse looks towards Achill Island in one direction and out across the enormous Atlantic in the other. But its importance goes far beyond its spectacular location. During the Second World War, weather information from this remote part of Mayo became extremely important. The weather reports helped the Allies understand the developing Atlantic weather systems before D-Day. We met Fergus Sweeney, whose grandmother, Maureen Sweeney, worked at the lighthouse and became associated with one of the most remarkable stories in the history of the D-Day landings. Fergus is an excellent guide and a former cameraman with RTÉ News. He now focuses on running a community and visitor centre in Erris, not far from Belmullet and Black Sod. Visitors can learn about the equipment once used for measuring wind and atmospheric pressure, including the observations that helped track changing weather conditions across the Atlantic. The D-Day Weather Story The weather around Ireland’s Atlantic coast can change rapidly. During the tense preparations for D-Day in 1944, weather information from Ireland was monitored closely by the Allies. The observations from Black Sod helped identify an approaching period of severe Atlantic weather. The resulting information contributed to the decision to postpone the Normandy landings by one day. The invasion eventually took place on 6 June 1944. Had the Allies proceeded in the earlier weather conditions, the rough seas and poor weather could have created an even more dangerous situation for the invasion fleet.Fergus explained to us that there was also secret cooperation between Ireland and the United Kingdom over weather information. Because Ireland was officially neutral during the war, the arrangements had to be handled carefully, and the information was subject to considerable checking. It is an extraordinary story to find in such a remote corner of Ireland. History & Culture Pirates, Smugglers and Poteen At the Solas Visitor Centre, we learned about the fascinating history of the Erris coastline. Centuries ago, local people sometimes raided or harassed passing ships in an attempt to obtain goods. The communities were poor, and ships passing offshore represented an opportunity to acquire some of the goods being traded. The British authorities found it difficult to control such activities. There was no coastguard or naval presence operating in the area in those earlier centuries, while the isolated coastline provided plenty of opportunities for people to avoid official attention. In later centuries, poteen-making became another illegal activity. Again, the area’s isolation made enforcement difficult. Illegal fishing was another issue during parts of the 1800s and later decades. Today, however, the decline in fish stocks has changed the nature of the fishing industry considerably. The Inishkea Islands Erris has its own offshore islands, most famously Inishkea. The islands were once inhabited but were eventually abandoned. Fishing tragedies in the 1920s contributed to growing concerns about the safety and health of the island communities. The government encouraged people to move to the mainland. The history of Inishkea adds another layer to the feeling that Erris is a place apart. There are many intriguing local stories and legends, and local

Europe, Travel Stories

Antwerp: Belgium’s Port City Full of Surprises

Antwerp might not be the glamorous destination that Paris or Amsterdam is, but it is a really interesting port city with plenty to discover. Antwerp has a great port, the second largest in Europe after Rotterdam. The city of Rubens boasts a fine old quarter, good markets, the Rubens House and good shopping, as well as busy evening entertainment. Just half an hour from Brussels Airport by train, access is simple. Aer Lingus and Ryanair both fly from Dublin to Brussels, while Cork has summer services to Brussels. Amsterdam is also just one and a half hours away by train, making Antwerp an alternative destination for a European city break. We found that two days covered the city well. Transport is easy, with buses and trams available throughout the city, while bicycle hire is also very popular. Arriving in Antwerp On arrival, we found our hotel close to the station. It had been raining heavily, but like Ireland, it does stop! We got to the old town and found some nice places to hear music near the Cathedral. The Muse is like a local Reg-style bar spread over three floors, with live jazz. Another bar has blues and the “Irish Times” next door at the big square has ballad music. We did not hang out too late on night one as we had a boat tour of the port at 10am the following morning. Discovering the Port of Antwerp We took the boat tour to explore one of Antwerp’s greatest assets — its enormous port. The tour takes around 90 minutes and was really amazing, giving us a sense of the size and extent of the operation. Over 60,000 people work in the port and related industries. It made a big comeback after World War II. Its many canals have a depth of around 4.5 metres for ships, while the locks open automatically onto the River Scheldt, around 50 miles from the sea. Ships of up to 100,000 gross tons can come up here. The port handled 14,000 trading ships in 2012 and this was growing, while barges totalled 157,000. It was truly amazing to see the activity. A Working Port on a Massive Scale On the boat trip you see where the coffee and banana ships arrive. Steel ships unload their cargo, and when it is raining the steel is kept under cover as it is unloaded. Stone, gravel, sand and various other building materials have their own wharves, as well as fertilisers and agricultural products. It is truly highly efficient how it is done. They try as much as possible to keep goods off the roads and use sea transport, river barges and rail to reach all parts of Europe. Many industrial and textile goods come from China and Asia, coffee from Brazil and Colombia, and bananas from Central American countries. It is a true discovery. The Red Star Line Story Afterwards, with the weather uncertain, we decided against a bike tour and went to see the Red Star Line Museum. This fascinating museum tells the story of emigration to Canada and the USA. Ships left Antwerp via Channel ports such as Cherbourg and Southampton for New York, Philadelphia and Halifax, Nova Scotia, from the 1870s to 1934. Many Russian and Polish Jews escaping pogroms, poor German farmers and city dwellers also left. Free land was advertised in Canada for farmers, and these people, used to cold winters, were prepared to handle it. Great photographs of emigrants, their baggage and their life stories make the emigration story emotionally tangible and visible. You can learn how people boarded the boats and were inspected for disease before departure. It is a brilliant collection of old photographs from that period. You can even check whether your relatives landed in New York during this period. MAS Museum & Antwerp’s Multicultural History The next stop was the MAS Museum, where the story of multicultural Antwerp, Belgium and its religions is explored. On the stairways we saw photographs of Belgian refugees escaping fighting during World War I. Families were hosted in nearby Holland, which remained neutral, while London areas such as Richmond and Dulwich had Belgian shops and schools during 1914–1918. It was another reminder of how closely European countries have been connected through migration, trade and war. Exploring the Old Town It was then time to head into town, which you can easily do on foot. We passed the shopping streets on a busy Saturday and explored some of the markets before reaching the impressive main market square. There is also a red-light area where women pose in windows, similar to Amsterdam. Apparently, it used to be more extensive but has been toned down. We were surprised to see so many young adults involved. It seems to be partially accepted in this part of the port city. Shopping in Antwerp We headed for the shopping streets around St Nicholas Square, where there is a great variety of quality and value. There are different brands from those found in the UK, including Dutch and local Belgian chains. Vintage and independent owner-run shops also abound, making it enjoyable to explore. Antwerp prides itself on having many new fashion designers. Antwerp and the World of Fashion The MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp hosts exhibitions exploring fashion through the decades. During our visit, the exhibition focused on shoes. There were exhibits ranging from Broadway and old American movies to the punk era and glam rock. It was fascinating to see how fashion interacts with music, film and theatre. Rubens: Antwerp’s Most Famous Citizen The following day we visited the magnificent Rubens House, dedicated to Antwerp’s most famous citizen. Peter Paul Rubens was not only an artist but also a leading trader in art, civic leader and church architect. His former home is now a museum containing paintings of Rubens, his family and famous scenes from his career. For us, this was a must-do visit. The fine art museum was closed during our visit, while the modern

Europe, France, Travel Stories

Montpellier: France’s Hidden Gem in the Sunny South

  Following the launch of the new Air France service from Cork to Paris, we took the opportunity to connect onward to the south of France with a short 90-minute flight to Montpellier. Known as the educational capital of southern France, Montpellier has also become one of the country’s most attractive destinations for culture, history, gastronomy and relaxed Mediterranean living. From elegant period buildings and grand public squares to beautiful parks, nearby beaches and vineyard-covered countryside, Montpellier offers far more than many visitors expect. One of the highlights was watching the sunset from the Arc de Triomphe overlooking the city, a wonderful way to begin our visit. Exploring the Historic Centre A walking tour is one of the best ways to discover Montpellier, although the compact historic centre is also easy to explore independently. Our guide introduced us to: Place de la Comédie Saint-Pierre Cathedral Medieval streets Historic churches The city’s synagogue The impressive Arc de Triomphe Jardin des Plantes Tours depart from the Tourist Office on Place de la Comédie, close to Saint-Roch station. One fascinating stop was the historic synagogue, where archaeological excavations uncovered a medieval Mikveh—a ritual bath used by Jewish women before marriage and family life. The discovery provides an important insight into the city’s long Jewish heritage and the role Montpellier played as a centre of medicine and learning. A City Shaped by History Montpellier’s history stretches back centuries and reflects many different cultures. Our guide explained how the city experienced: Moorish invasions Spanish influence Jewish settlement The Second World War The arrival of the “Pieds-Noirs” following Algerian independence The returning French settlers from North Africa helped shape modern Montpellier, bringing with them cuisine, culture and entrepreneurship. Jewish scholars also played a significant role in developing one of Europe’s earliest medical schools, helping establish Montpellier’s reputation as a centre for medicine that continues today. Today companies such as Sanofi maintain major operations here, reinforcing the city’s importance in healthcare and pharmaceutical research. Student City Meets Mediterranean Lifestyle Montpellier has approximately 300,000 residents. Around a quarter of the population are students, while another large proportion are retirees attracted by the warm Mediterranean climate. This combination creates a lively yet relaxed atmosphere. Visitors will find: Outdoor cafés International restaurants Student nightlife Safe pedestrian streets Excellent public transport Despite its youthful energy, Montpellier feels welcoming and easy to explore. Shopping, Markets & Local Life Shopping is another highlight. We discovered: Independent bookshops Antique stores Artisan food shops Wine merchants Local produce markets Jean Jaurès market area The local wines from the Hérault region deserve special attention. Wine Country Beyond the City Years ago we picked grapes in the countryside surrounding Montpellier, so revisiting the nearby village of Saint-Mathieu brought back many memories. Today the surrounding villages thrive as commuter communities while remaining at the heart of one of France’s important wine-producing regions. The famous Pic Saint-Loup appellation produces excellent wines and offers beautiful walking trails through forests and hills. During our visit the grape harvest was underway. A vineyard manager explained that unusually wet spring weather had affected yields this season, with many growers facing reduced harvests. Modern harvesting is now largely mechanised compared with earlier decades. One pleasant surprise was paying just €1.50 for a glass of local wine in a village café. A Day Trip to the Coast Montpellier also offers quick access to the Mediterranean. Using the city’s excellent tram network, visitors can travel to Palavas-les-Flots, where sandy beaches and seaside cafés provide an ideal day out. Highlights include: Wide sandy beaches Beachfront restaurants Seafront hotels Coastal walks A day tram ticket costs just over €4, making this an affordable excursion. Compared with the French Riviera, this coastline feels quieter, more authentic and far less crowded. Art & Culture Montpellier has an impressive cultural offering. The Musée Fabre houses excellent collections, including works by Picasso and other renowned artists. The city also reflects many chapters of French history, from the French Revolution to the Second World War. Throughout the historic centre visitors will discover sculptures, architecture and elegant Haussmann-style buildings that give Montpellier its distinctive character. Food & Dining Food is one of Montpellier’s greatest strengths. We enjoyed: Traditional French cuisine Vietnamese restaurants Local wine bars Outdoor cafés Plat du Jour lunch menus from around €12 Recommended areas include: Place de la Comédie Saint Anne Square Jean Jaurès For evening entertainment, visitors will also find Irish pubs including Carolans and Fitzpatrick’s, along with numerous cafés offering live music. Things to Do Some of Montpellier’s highlights include: Place de la Comédie Arc de Triomphe Saint-Pierre Cathedral Jardin des Plantes Musée Fabre Medieval Old Town Local food markets Tram ride to Palavas Beach Pic Saint-Loup wine region Historic villages including Saint-Mathieu Allow at least two full days to appreciate both the city and its surrounding countryside. Getting There By Air Air France operates services from Cork and Dublin via Paris Charles de Gaulle. The onward flight to Montpellier takes approximately 90 minutes. From Montpellier Airport an airport shuttle connects with the tram network for under €5. By Train The high-speed TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon takes approximately three hours. Advance booking offers the best fares. By Car Driving from northern France is possible but lengthy. Many visitors combine Montpellier with touring western France or neighbouring regions. Local Connections During our visit we met Matt Dolan from Tramore, now living in Montpellier with his wife Elodie and their young family. Having previously worked in hospitality in Ireland before moving to France, Matt now enjoys the Mediterranean lifestyle, excellent food and warmer climate. His story highlights how welcoming Montpellier has become for both international visitors and expatriates alike. Final Thoughts Montpellier combines history, culture, excellent food, beaches, wine and beautiful architecture into one highly enjoyable destination. Less crowded than the French Riviera but equally rewarding, it offers visitors an authentic experience of southern France with excellent transport links and outstanding value. Whether you’re planning a weekend city break or a longer tour of southern France, Montpellier deserves

Europe, Italy, Travel Stories

St Francis Way Tuscany: Italy’s Beautiful Camino Walk

St Francis Way Tuscany Walking Italy’s Beautiful Camino Through Tuscany Spain is normally associated with the Camino and perhaps France or Portugal. However, we were fortunate to try out a more recent route where Irish walkers are now heading – the Italian St Francis Way. This magnificent walk takes you through the stunning landscape of Tuscany in Northern Italy. While the original pilgrimage route stretches from Canterbury to Rome via Assisi, the Tuscan section lies just north of Assisi and offers some of the most rewarding walking in Europe. Camino Ways organised the trip and we were part of a special group led by Philip Cawley of Today FM. Philip also organises annual walking tours, including another planned for the autumn from Sarria on the final 120km of the famous French Camino to Santiago. It proved to be one of the finest walking holidays I have ever experienced. Related Reading: Read our guides to Lucca, Siena, and other Italian destinations on the blog. Arrival in Lucca The first day saw an early Aer Lingus flight to Pisa before transferring by coach to Lucca, our base for two nights. Lucca is an ancient city enclosed by magnificent medieval walls stretching almost five kilometres, even larger than the famous walls of Derry. The historic streets offered welcome shade from the afternoon sun while its impressive cathedral and piazzas invited leisurely exploration. There is also an Irish connection through St Frediano (St Fridianus), originally an Ulster prince who became Bishop of Lucca during the 6th century. Visitors can also climb the Guinigi Tower for panoramic views over the city. Beginning the St Francis Way The following morning we travelled by coach for over an hour to San Miniato, where the Italian Camino truly began. Our opening stage covered approximately 25km to Gambassi Terme, a famous spa town. Although challenging with several steep climbs, every member of the group completed the route. The Tuscan countryside constantly changed around us with vineyards, wheat fields, olive groves, walnut trees and pine forests creating magnificent scenery. With very few cafés along the trail, carrying plenty of water and snacks proved essential. Earlier that morning we had collected our official St Francis Way passport from the tourist office in San Miniato before setting off. That evening we returned to Lucca for dinner, having also gained a quick education in enthusiastic Italian driving! Through Vineyards and Medieval Villages Day two was a gentler 15km walk towards the magnificent medieval town of San Gimignano. We passed vineyards, olive groves and thermal springs before stopping at the village of Pancole, where a charming guesthouse served lunch in beautiful gardens. Nearby stands the Sanctuario di Pancole, associated with a local legend of the Madonna appearing to a deaf child during a devastating drought. According to tradition, the child regained both speech and food, while rain finally returned to save local families. The rich Tuscan countryside, lined with cypress trees and rolling vineyards, made this one of the most memorable sections of the journey. By late afternoon the famous skyline of San Gimignano appeared before us, its medieval towers rising dramatically above the surrounding hills. Colle Val d’Elsa and the Elsa River Our next destination was the delightful medieval town of Colle Val d’Elsa, where we stayed at the excellent Hotel La Cartiera Vecchia. The town itself receives far fewer tourists than neighbouring San Gimignano yet possesses tremendous charm and a long tradition of glassmaking. One of the highlights of the week came the following morning as we followed the River Elsa. We crossed rope bridges, stepped across river stones and admired crystal-clear blue-green waters coloured by nearby thermal springs. Waterfalls, fishing spots and shaded woodland created a magical landscape unlike anything else on the route. Along the way we stopped at family-run cafés and agriturismo restaurants where local hospitality matched the outstanding scenery. Monteriggioni and Siena Day four brought us to the magnificent fortified village of Monteriggioni, originally built to defend Siena. The forest approach echoed with the sound of thousands of crickets before we climbed into the medieval village for a welcome Italian ice cream. Nearby Abbadia Isola Monastery, dating from the 8th century, provided spectacular countryside views and remains an important retreat centre today. Our final destination was Siena, famous worldwide for the annual Palio horse race held in its remarkable Piazza del Campo. Unfortunately our last walking day ended dramatically as a thunderstorm swept across the Tuscan hills. Lightning forced our guide Ana to cancel the final section for safety reasons, and after sheltering beneath a farmhouse archway we eventually reached Siena by taxi. Despite the rain-soaked ending, it somehow provided a fitting conclusion to an unforgettable week of sunshine, history and spectacular scenery. Fellow Walkers Mary Hearne, originally from Rathgormack, County Waterford and now living in Dublin, described the Camino Ways tour as one of the best walking holidays she had experienced. Margaret Ward, originally from Kilkenny and now with The Irish Times, also thoroughly enjoyed the route and said she would happily return for another Italian walking adventure. Final Thoughts The St Francis Way offers everything you could wish for in a walking holiday — spectacular scenery, medieval villages, fascinating history, excellent food, wonderful wines and genuine Italian hospitality. Whether you are an experienced Camino walker or simply looking for a memorable active holiday, Tuscany delivers an unforgettable experience. More stories on Lucca, San Gimignano, Siena and Tuscany’s medieval villages will follow in future articles. Travel Information Getting There Aer Lingus flights to Pisa Guided tour organised by Camino Ways Tour leaders: Philip Cawley (Today FM) and Karl Bradshaw (Camino Ways) Useful Outbound Links Camino Ways: https://caminoways.com Via di Francesco: https://www.viadifrancesco.it Visit Tuscany: https://www.visittuscany.com Italia.it Tourism: https://www.italia.it

Europe, Germany, Travel Stories

Dordrecht, Holland: A Hidden Gem Beyond Amsterdam

This is a beautiful and historic city, not far from Rotterdam, they claim it is the oldest city with a charter in Holland, so similarly. Little war damage despite being an important port in the past,but Rotterdam was heavily bombed. If you want to see a small version of Amsterdam with canals, history and art, then this is an alternative and lower in cost ,easy to do day trips from here and have a base too with lower hotel costs. First Impressions & Tours We started with a walking tour with Pauli, a native of South Africa, followed by a pleasant boat trip along the canals into the old port, where you can see major shipping traffic heading for the Rhine and Germany. We finished at the excellent Dordrecht museum. Waterford has made great progress in recent years with its tourism offering and Dordrecht has a great heritage also. Getting Around & City Layout There is an old town, which looks very prosperous and suburbs, arriving by train, it is about 15 minute walk to the old city, check out the tourism office for detailed maps, giving the complexity it can be better than Google maps, noted out tech savvy son, who lives in Holland. The town hall is very well restored and there is a great network of streets, where living in the old port and town is popular. This creates vibrancy, living over the shop is trendy here even if the rooms are smaller. Architecture & Heritage The building heritage is strong and has the 8th most preservation orders in all of the country. Some of the streets lean inwards and are kept up by steel wall anchors if renovations are undertaken. The old port is turned into a marina for pleasure boats and is also a trendy place to live now for locals or commuters to Rotterdam just 20kw away by train. See some heritage boats too in he harbour, an old warehouse or two that date back several hundred years , impressive churches and town walls also with their gates and coats of arms . Religion & Historical Change The city became Protestant after the reformation and the former St. Mary’s Catholic Cathedral became a Dutch Reformed Church, with all the statues taken out and paintings removed to be stored elsewhere. In other cities they were wantonly destroyed. This was in the early 1500s,after Martin Luther broke from the Catholic Church, many Dutch also followed his new religion, but less support for it in South Holland. Flooding & Survival The city would also lose out to Rotterdam from the 1700s after some great floods killed a huge number of citizens. Today they still worry about floods and our guide told us that she can move to the attic if the flood sea waters rise to a level of 4 metres more than normal and be safe for a while.in 1953 over 1850 died in a flood that affected all the country and a new Delta plan and defences built. Trade, Rivers & Economy Today you can see the great waterways of the links to the Rivers of the Maas and Rhine with cargo ships and barges going to Germany inland and towards the sea in the other direction. This was a great trading city back in the day and wine was big business, like in Waterford, they had links to France. They have named a wine street in the port, there the buildings still have old wine cellars and signs for a Bordeaux house. Important schools and churches are here too, some are converted now for modern use as religious belief falls. Local Life & Shopping Trends We also noted an emerging trend in Holland for pre loved things as part of an eco trend. Vintage fashion has become very popular, plus old furniture and furnishings, household items and vinyl records are making a big comeback with 3 stores selling vinyls on the main shopping street, said a shop owner to us. The city is nice and laid back with a good atmosphere. Art & Cultural Heritage We saw the famous burial place in the Augustine Church on Voorstraat of Aelbert Cuyp 1620-1691, world renowned artist from here, we would see his paintings later. The city was also the location for the Dordrecht conference to settle the breakaway land of Holland after a long Battle with Spain in the 1500s. The Spanish and Habsburgians would rule here, up to then. Later invaders would be the French and Napoleon after 1790 to 1815 and then the Nazis from 1940-45, so the city had its share of invaders. Boat Tours & Living Experience The excellent boat tour at ten euro a head is good value for an hour, no English on the loudspeaker tannoy, but was still nice in cool fine autumn weather. You get to see how people live over looking the canals and old port. Many of the houses are being renovated too as this is valuable real estate, although parking is a big challenge. The nearby port of Rotterdam has many jobs and Dordrecht is a pleasant place to live. Rotterdam suffered huge war damage 1940-45, but not Dordrecht, hence it is a magnet for tourists today. They had invaders then but also the French in 1800 to 1814 under Napoleon. Food & Dining The city has good places to eat also like the restaurant Magazijn on the main Voorstraat, great airy place with high ceilings and good ventilation, nice for fish and a variety of foods, served efficiently. No mask wearing except on trains. This is close to the Canal water bus stop. Markets & Local Atmosphere For local shoppers like in many Dutch towns there is a fish and food market, many immigrants and locals come here for good value and a chat with traders. Many interesting individually owner local shops also, it took a while to get used to not wearing masks in shops. There is an old mint nearby, where

Europe, Travel Stories, United Kingdom

London Breaks: Theatre, Art and Culture in 2026

We travelled to London in early March for a trade show and took in a new theatrical experience at the New Canary Wharf theatre. This high-tech “Hunger Games” show for me was a step into the unknown and part of a new dystopian future. Named after the successful film version, the show has been on Broadway and opened at the new high-tech Canary Wharf theatre near the East London financial district. For more UK city break inspiration, read our guides to Paris spring breaks and Hamburg cultural weekends on the blog. Thames River Journey to Canary Wharf We went there on the new Thames river fast ferry service direct from Putney on the west side of the city close to Hammersmith, passing via Battersea, Westminster and Tower Bridge. The ferry costs are on the Oyster system and for around £11 sterling you get a great value photo tour of the Thames River in Central London. We enjoyed the show even if a little long, as it proved to be unique with stages moving and even some of the seating too. Many high-tech influences, great costumes, dance and music ensured great entertainment for this Sunday matinee performance off season. There was a varied audience of young and older folk, some scary bits too, and one felt like being at a modern version of a Roman amphitheatre as characters in the show battle it out to stay alive. There is a long interval. Useful Links Visit London: Visit London London Theatre Tickets: Official London Theatre Thames Clippers River Service: Uber Boat by Thames Clippers Brick Lane and Shoreditch Afterwards we took a train to near Brick Lane on the Docklands Railway. Brick Lane is famous for Asian food and Shoreditch is now a hip area. We had a drink in the pub Queen of Prussia beforehand and it proved a personal trip down memory lane in this ancient historical part of London, not far from the Tower of London. There is even a museum depicting the life of Jack the Ripper, in what were haunted streets of the past, many destroyed in the Blitz period. The modern skyscrapers were an earlier backdrop at Canary Wharf in what is a mini Manhattan or Wall Street in New York. This area is quiet at weekends and easy to explore. London Art Galleries and Museums The following days we would see Trafalgar Square, the Strand, Westminster area and St. James’s Park. Good exhibitions were on at the Courtauld Gallery, where there are amazing collections from the 19th-century French Impressionists with great works by Cézanne, Manet, Monet, Gauguin and Seurat. This was all for the bargain entry fee of around £8-10. Booking a time in advance is suggested to avoid queues. This was a new venue for me and is near Somerset House, famous for birth certs, and just a short walk from Whitehall and Trafalgar Square. A day later we got to the National Gallery, where there are similar pieces of world-class art to see and in this case all for free, although there are rumours of new charges in future years. The National Gallery has great art from Constable to Gainsborough, Dutch masters, as well as famous French Impressionist artists like Pissarro, Renoir, Claude Monet, Edgar Degas and many more. Useful Links The Courtauld Gallery The National Gallery London Tate Modern Tate Modern and London Culture Lots of cultural opportunities exist in central London. The Tate Modern had Londoner Tracey Emin and her themes from Margate seaside, while the old Tate Gallery at Millbank featured Turner and Constable too. Going around London, signing up for the Oyster Card means getting around is simple. A bank card can also be used but might include more exchange charges. Over at Westminster Square there were protests against the Commonwealth gathering of nations and the Monarchy. It all added to the international flavour of a world city, where all manners of opinions and politics exist. Where to Stay in London For a good value stay in the area try the Premier Inn Hub near Westminster and Victoria Station. Premier Inn at St. James’s Park has good value hotel rooms and a good breakfast. Lots of eating options and good pubs nearby including The Two Chairmen, The Feathers and The Buckingham Arms. Riviera is a great French restaurant while Italian restaurants nearby are generally good value, although some others are pricier. Leicester Square and the West End are not far away if you want to try Soho or Chinatown. Hotel and Travel Links Premier Inn London Hotels Transport for London Oyster Card Ticketmaster UK Final Thoughts on London Breaks Lots of great music and culture exist in London, as well as unique dining. Prices are now on a par with Dublin, so booking ahead with London theatre and concert listings is advised. Made Travel helped us out on our visit to the Hunger Games and last year for The Lion King. Your local favourite Waterford travel agent can also organise your London trip and often secure special hotel offers. London remains one of Europe’s leading city break destinations for theatre, museums, galleries, shopping and entertainment, with something new always waiting around the corner. Related Travel Guides For more regional travel inspiration, readers can also explore our guides to: Bradford City of Culture Beautiful Bath: A timeless Georgian Gem in Somerset

Europe, Travel Stories, United Kingdom

Armagh City: Northern Ireland’s Georgian Gem

A Surprising City Break Armagh City proved to be a wonderful surprise as a destination to visit. We have crossed the border many times over the years, but had never properly explored Armagh until it was recommended to us for its history, architecture and cultural importance. The city may still carry an image of cathedrals and prayer, known as the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, while also having experienced its share of political troubles during past generations. Yet today, Armagh has emerged renewed and revitalised through restoration and investment following the peace process. Settlement here dates back to the 5th century and St. Patrick himself, who was granted land for a church after reportedly curing a local chieftain’s family member. The city eventually received official city status in the 1990s and today has a population of approximately 15,000. Georgian Beauty and the Famous Mall Apart from our home city of Waterford, Armagh may well boast one of the finest Georgian malls in Ireland. The Mall — a huge green open space lined with trees — was originally used for horse racing before being converted for cricket and public recreation. Walking through this elegant area, one could easily imagine being in a historic English city. Many of the impressive Georgian buildings date from the late 1700s, when Church of Ireland Archbishop Robinson became not only an influential church figure but also a visionary city planner. Unlike Dublin, where many Georgian buildings were demolished, Armagh preserved much of its architectural heritage beautifully. For readers interested in historic European cities, you may also enjoy our feature onBeautiful Bath Travel Guide Charlemont Place overlooking the Mall contains some remarkable architecture, now occupied by professionals and businesses. Nearby are museums, churches and historic halls that reflect the city’s layered religious and political history. Walking Tours and City History One of the best ways to discover Armagh is through a guided walking tour. We joined former council worker and local historian Brian McDonald for a fascinating 90-minute tour of the city. Brian, also a fan of Waterford hurling, shared tremendous insight into Armagh’s history, restoration and renaissance. For organised tours:Donna Fox Tours The city has transformed dramatically since the Troubles. Streets once damaged by bombs and neglect have been restored using local limestone. Dobbin Street, once home to traditional farm markets, now features quirky gargoyles and public art inspired by medieval history and mythology. Property prices remain relatively affordable compared to many Irish cities, with much employment focused on agriculture and agri-business, while nearby Newry acts as a major commercial centre. Cathedrals, Religion and St. Patrick Armagh is famously known as the city of seven hills and is dominated by its two impressive St. Patrick’s Cathedrals. The Church of Ireland cathedral carries the older history, while the Catholic cathedral was built after the famine on a hill overlooking the city. Both offer magnificent views across the surrounding drumlin countryside. The Church of Ireland Gothic cathedral, rebuilt in the 1840s, stands proudly beside parkland and cultural buildings including the Market Place Theatre, visited recently by King Charles. Nearby stands the memorial to Brian Boru, whose remains were reportedly brought here after the Battle of Clontarf. Visitors can also follow parts of the famous St. Patrick’s Trail stretching towards Downpatrick and the Antrim hills. More information:Visit Armagh Tourism Food, Music and Local Culture Armagh has a surprisingly lively food and music scene. One popular recommendation is Uluru Bar & Grill, which even serves kangaroo alongside Malaysian seafood dishes and international cuisine. Other recommended dining spots include: Embers Mulberry Bistro Red Neds Callan Bar at Armagh City Hotel Traditional music remains an important part of city life. The famous “Hole in the Wall” pub is highly regarded, while local piping clubs continue strong traditions in Irish music and instrument making. A Dublin friend later remarked how impressed he was by Armagh’s traditional music scene, describing it as one of the hidden gems of the island. A City Moving Forward Armagh experienced terrible violence during the 1970s and 1980s, with bombings, sectarian attacks and political division deeply affecting the city. Yet modern Armagh feels welcoming, peaceful and optimistic. Locals proved exceptionally friendly during our stay. Even when asking for directions inside Devlins Bar, several people immediately offered assistance and local recommendations. Armagh city has clearly undergone a renaissance and deserves much greater recognition as a destination on the island of Ireland. Interested in Irish cultural destinations may also enjoy:Achill Island Travel Series Armagh Apples and Cider Outside the city we visited the Troughton apple farm on the Portadown road, producers of the well-known Armagh cider sold across Ireland. Armagh remains Ireland’s leading apple-growing county thanks to its unique microclimate and sheltered drumlin landscape near Lough Neagh. The family-run farm offers tours, cider tastings and a wonderful farm shop selling juices, dry ciders and local produce. We sampled their excellent apple juice while meeting visitors from America touring the region. Where to Stay in Armagh City Hotel Recommendation Armagh City Hotel Comfortable rooms, excellent breakfast and carvery dining, leisure facilities and ample parking in a very central location. Official website:Armagh City Hotel Drinks and Food Recommendations Pubs Hole in the Wall Devlins Bar Shambles Bar Restaurants Uluru Keegan’s Bar & Restaurant Callan Bar Getting There from Waterford By car, Armagh is approximately 300km from Waterford and around a three-hour drive via the M9, M50 and M1/A1 through Newry. Public transport options include: Train to Newry via Dublin, then bus to Armagh Bus from Dublin Airport on the X4 route towards Derry stopping in Armagh Final Thoughts Armagh combines Georgian elegance, religious heritage, excellent music, local food and fascinating history in a compact and welcoming city. It feels peaceful today, while still honestly reflecting on its complicated past. We left convinced that Armagh deserves far more attention from visitors across Ireland and beyond — and we certainly plan to return.

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