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Europe, France, Travel Stories, United Kingdom

Nantes Travel Guide: Culture, History & Irish Links

Nantes – A Cultural Magnet with Irish Connections Nantes, in northwest France, is fast becoming a standout city break destination — especially for Irish travellers. With year-round flights from Dublin via Ryanair and seasonal routes from Cork, access has never been easier. What makes Nantes even more special is its strong connection with Ireland, particularly Waterford. The nearby town of Saint-Herblain, twinned with Waterford, has fostered decades of cultural exchange. Over 7,000 visits have taken place in the past 25 years, building a deep relationship between the regions. For Irish visitors, Nantes and the wider Brittany/Loire area feel familiar — a shared Celtic heritage, coastal landscapes and a welcoming atmosphere make it easy to feel at home. Why Visit Nantes? Nantes is the largest city in the Pays de la Loire region and offers a perfect mix of culture, history, shopping and gastronomy. Tourism officials describe it as an ideal short city break destination, with two days enough to explore the city, combined with easy trips to the nearby coast. The city is also gaining recognition internationally. Time Magazine once described it as one of the most pleasant cities in France, while L’Express ranked it highly among young people for quality of life. A City of History & Heritage At the heart of Nantes stands the impressive Château des Ducs de Bretagne, surrounded by a wide moat. Now a city museum, it tells the story of Nantes’ maritime past, including its links with Ireland following the Penal Laws. The museum also explores the more difficult chapters of history, including the city’s involvement in the transatlantic slave trade. Nantes was once a major port for sugar imports from the Caribbean, which helped fuel industries such as biscuit production. Before Brittany became part of France, Nantes was its most important city — and many locals still identify strongly with Breton culture, including its distinctive music and traditions. Art, Culture & Creativity Nantes has reinvented itself as a creative hub. The Le Voyage à Nantes initiative blends art, culture and everyday life, with sculptures and installations placed throughout the city — along rivers, in parks and across public spaces. The city is home to more than a dozen museums, including the excellent Musée d’Arts de Nantes, which features works from the 13th century to modern times. Another highlight is the legacy of Jules Verne, author of Around the World in 80 Days, who was born in Nantes. A museum dedicated to his life and work is set to expand, further strengthening the city’s cultural offering. Walking, Shopping & City Life Nantes is a city best explored on foot. Wide plazas, riverside walks and elegant streets make it a pleasure to wander. Highlights include: Beautiful parks and green spaces Historic cathedrals and river views Open-air art installations across the city Shopping is another attraction. The iconic Galeries Lafayette Nantes offers high-end fashion, while the charming Passage Pommeraye — a 19th-century arcade — provides a unique shopping experience with its ornate architecture. Local Nantais sweets and chocolates are also worth bringing home. A Maritime City with Global Links Like Waterford, Nantes built its wealth through maritime trade. Its port connected France to the Caribbean, Canada and Africa, shaping the city’s economic and cultural development. The River Loire remains central to this story, flowing through a fertile region known for its vineyards and châteaux. While shipbuilding has moved downstream to Saint-Nazaire, Nantes continues to thrive as a modern cultural and economic centre. Final Thoughts Nantes is a city on the rise — creative, historic and welcoming. With strong Irish links, easy access and a rich mix of culture, food and heritage, it offers an ideal short break with the option to explore the wider Loire region and Atlantic coast. For travellers from Ireland, it is not just another French city — it is a place with familiar connections and new discoveries waiting.  

Europe, France, Travel Stories

Lyon City: History, Food & Culture

France’s Historic Second City and Gourmet Capital Lyon is the number two city of France and on a recent visit to France proved was a revelation. It has many interesting sights to see, great food / gastronomy, magnificent buildings, massive rivers in a city that will not disappoint. Lyon dates back to the Roman and early Christian period. Situated on two major rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, if you remember from your school geography lessons. Today it is a bustling thriving city of 1.5 million people, much the size of Dublin but with many lessons for here. Lyon is an excellent stop over between Paris and the North, a half way point to the south and its sunnier climes of the Riviera. We were heading south on a brief road trip in the past, but never made the city centre. Old Lyon or “Vieux Lyon” was a revelation. A friend from Lyon but based in Waterford, Laurent, gave me some useful tips in advance. He said focus on the old parts but also check out the modern side and its great culinary heritage. We were there in 2024 and suggest it for 2026. Getting There & Around Lyon is well served with transport but the airport is far out of town. Some helpful locals at the airport explained the best way to the city via local bus to tram way and then onto the city centre via lines to the main station. A local Moroccan working as a building engineer made sure we made the right connections and was most obliging as we made tracks for our city centre hotel near the main Perrache station. Across the main river Saone, a tram link on the other side proved useful to visit the local market, Les Halles, where good fresh food awaited. Old Lyon – Vieux Lyon It was then onto “Vieux Lyon” on what was becoming a nice sunny day. A chat and snack saw some more options. Bellecour is a fine place to start too with its wide open square and main focus for shopping, where the FNAC shop overlooks the square. There is a great impression of the city’s prestige and wealth here, tourism office close by and various downtown hotels. It is a 15-minute walk or short tram ride. Paris looks splendid but Lyon gives it a strong impression too with facelifts and regeneration. Old Lyon attracts many tourists but is not overbearing in June, early in the tourist season. See the Iris Galerie, art on eyes and health. A miniature is also an attraction, many interesting points near Place de la Basoche. We sat on an open square under the Jean Baptiste sculpture and took it all in, as it faced the main cathedral of the same name. The fountain had flowing water and a local guy just dashed along to cool off from the water, provoking conversation with nearby locals as he made a bow for his genuine effort, offering a welcome smile and bow (Metro Vieux Lyon). It was a nice introduction again to this impressive city. Along the streets of Vieux Lyon, browsing interesting shops and restaurants, thus finding possibilities for the next day. Guided Tours & Architecture The local tourist office has city tours at 10am daily, given by Laurence. She had great knowledge of the Roman origins and can show you, walking through the city, the incredible Lyon architecture and restoration of older buildings to make them now a tourist attraction with expert guidance. Various tax incentives and local supports encouraged this process. We need to send some Irish urban planners here and see good practice. The quality was superior to our standards but they had great heritage buildings to restore. Local stonemasons and builders have great expertise in this work, restoring residences of four to five storeys high in multi-apartment dwellings over shops and inner courtyards. The thick walls are great in summer heat with shuttered windows. There are apps for such tours also and puzzles. Rivers, Hills & Views The river walks are splendid and give a sense of importance to these great rivers. Other tips from locals are on the edge of the city’s hills or “Colline de Fourvière”. The Esplanade de Fourvière is very impressive. We were recommended to see the river and try some of the boat tours, the food market Les Halles, and the bouchon restaurant area near Bellecour. Bellecour is a fabulous square in the centre of the city, a great meeting place and also the location for the main tourist office. Near access to the rivers of Saone and Rhone and the great bridges, we were recommended to visit an amazing hotel transformed from its previous existence as a hospital. Fabulous job and open to the public for drinks and outdoor dining in the courtyard. This is now known as the Grand Hôtel-Dieu. Locals love it as they remember it from the hospital era. Silk, Fashion & Workers’ History Lyon as a city has tremendous heritage and fashion is another one. It was known as the French city of silk, a prize won by the Sun King Louis XIV as they battled with the Venetians and Italians over trade openings. Venice gave its silk secret to Lyon as part of a deal. Croix Rousse is the area for silk and an old silk artisan building is still operational for visitors to watch and buy silk. Some small artisans still use it but most production is now in Asia. Lyon still has a sense of style but also a cosmopolitan flavour with many nationalities, some from former colonies in Africa and the Caribbean. In the 1830s there were riots and deaths as workers rebelled over wage regulation reductions, with police opening fire on strikers. Over a hundred died. They were called the Canuts and the story is explained at Maison des Canuts at Croix Rousse Metro, about 300 metres from the station. Music, Bars & Nightlife Vieux Lyon is a good location

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