Durham is a city that rewards a little time. Its cathedral and castle rise above the River Wear, while below them you will find riverside walks, independent shops, a covered market and plenty of places to stop for a meal.
We found it a calmer contrast to nearby Newcastle, with enough history and character to make an overnight stay worthwhile. The university gives the city a lively atmosphere, but there are also quiet corners where you can simply enjoy the view.
Our visit in April 2025 happened to coincide with the Royal Maundy service at Durham Cathedral. We had booked a few weeks ahead, without realising quite how busy the city would be that day. It added an unexpected royal occasion to a trip that already had plenty to offer.
Getting There
Durham makes a convenient stop when exploring north-east England. Newcastle is a short train journey away, so the two cities can easily be combined in one trip.
If arriving through Newcastle Airport, plan your onward connection to Newcastle Central Station and then the train to Durham. Check flight availability, rail services and connection times for your travel dates before booking.
Once in Durham, we explored much of the centre on foot. Allow time for the hills, particularly when heading up towards the cathedral and castle. Comfortable shoes are useful for both the historic streets and riverside paths.
Exploring the Destination
Durham Market Hall
One of our first stops was the indoor market, where the variety made it worth a proper browse.
During our visit, stalls offered books, vinyl records, crafts, musical instruments, vintage clothing and hobby supplies. It was the sort of place where you could go in looking for nothing in particular and still find something interesting.
We stopped for deli snacks before continuing through the city. The market made a pleasant introduction to Durham beyond its best-known landmarks.
A Cruise on the River Wear
Visit County Durham arranged a trip for us on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser, boarding near Elvet Bridge.
This was one of the highlights of our stay. From the water, you get a different impression of Durham, with views towards the cathedral, castle and bridges.
Our guide mixed local history with entertaining stories about student life and the city’s characters. It was a relaxing way to understand how the river has helped shape Durham.
The cathedral and castle together form the Durham Castle and Cathedral UNESCO World Heritage Site. Seeing their setting from below makes it easy to appreciate why this part of the city is so special.
For current sailings and booking arrangements, check the Prince Bishop River Cruiser information before travelling.
Durham Cathedral
After the boat trip, we made our way uphill to the cathedral.
The King and Queen had attended the Royal Maundy service on 17 April 2025, and we were able to enter after the service. The flowers, the presentation of the building and the atmosphere made it a memorable occasion.
Inside, the scale of the cathedral is impressive. We spent time looking at the stained glass, sculpture and tributes to St Cuthbert. There is a great deal to take in, so this is somewhere to explore slowly.
The cathedral remains a place of worship and pilgrimage as well as a major visitor attraction. At the time of this update, general admission is free, with donations encouraged. Check separately for any ticketed activities and changes to visitor access around services or events.
See Durham Cathedral’s visitor information when planning your visit.
Durham Castle and Palace Green
Close to the cathedral, Palace Green provides another opportunity to enjoy Durham’s historic setting.
The castle was closed to visitors on the day we were there, so we admired it from outside. Its origins go back to 1072, and it remains part of university life today.
Guided tours are the main way to explore the interior. If the castle is high on your list, check availability in advance rather than assuming you can walk in on arrival.
The library and museum collections around Palace Green also give you reasons to spend longer in this part of the city. We did not manage to see everything on this visit.
History & Culture
Durham’s identity brings together religious heritage, university life and the mining communities of the surrounding county.
Inside the cathedral, the miners’ memorial was particularly moving. It was a reminder of the lives lost in the pits and of an industry that shaped generations of families. We noticed Irish names among those remembered.
The Durham Miners’ Gala, also known as the Big Meeting, reflects the continuing importance of that heritage. Anyone planning a visit around the event should check the current programme and make accommodation arrangements ahead of time.
For us, this combination of grand buildings and working lives gave Durham more depth than a simple sightseeing stop.
Food & Dining
The market was a good starting point for a snack, but we also enjoyed exploring the cafés and restaurants near the river.
Around the Framwellgate and riverside areas, we found places to sit, eat and take in the view. Some of the newer development blended pleasantly with the older city, giving these areas a welcoming feel.
We had an Italian meal that we felt offered good value, and there were other dining choices nearby. Rather than filling every hour with attractions, it was enjoyable to leave time for a meal and a riverside break.
Things to Do
Walk Beside the River
After visiting the cathedral, head back towards the water. We enjoyed the change of pace and the different views of the city from its riverside paths.
Browse the Market and Independent Shops
Allow time to look beyond the main landmarks. The market and smaller shops were part of what made our visit enjoyable.
Explore More of Durham’s Museums
We missed the Oriental Museum on this occasion. It is one to consider when planning a longer stay, alongside the collections around Palace Green. Check current opening information before making a special journey.
Take a Trip to Locomotion in Shildon
For railway enthusiasts, Locomotion offers an opportunity to explore the region’s railway story beyond Durham city.
The museum is in Shildon, so plan it as a separate excursion. General museum admission is currently free, although selected events and activities may have their own arrangements.
Explore the Durham Dales
If you have more time, the Durham Dales offer a countryside extension to a city break. Choose a route suited to your transport, walking ability and the weather, rather than trying to fit too much into one day.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Indigo Durham, in the former Old Shire Hall on Old Elvet.
It was a beautiful period building, quiet and comfortable during our stay. We found the staff very good and enjoyed breakfast. The individually themed rooms reflected aspects of Durham’s history, which suited the character of the visit.
For us, it was a pleasant base for exploring the city. Check the hotel’s current facilities, room rates and transport arrangements before booking.
An overnight stay gives you time to enjoy Durham after the main sightseeing, with space for a relaxed dinner and another walk the following morning.
Local Tips
- Wear comfortable shoes: the climb towards the cathedral is part of the visit.
- Check cathedral access around services and special events.
- Book a castle tour ahead if you want to see inside.
- Confirm river-cruise sailings before planning your day around one.
- Leave time for the market and riverside, as well as the cathedral.
- Check museum opening days before travelling.
- Book accommodation early when a major event coincides with your visit.
Final Thoughts
Durham gave us a rewarding mix of history, river scenery and everyday city life.
The cathedral was the great highlight, but the boat trip, indoor market and riverside walks all added to the experience. Our stay at the former Shire Hall gave us another connection with the city’s past.
The royal visit made our particular day unusual. Even without that occasion, there would have been more than enough to keep us occupied.
If you enjoy historic buildings, a walk by the water and a city that can be explored at a comfortable pace, Durham is well worth putting on your list. Give it an overnight stay if you can.
