Mayo has plenty to celebrate, from its passionate sporting traditions to its fascinating history, spectacular scenery and growing appeal as a destination for visitors seeking a different side of Ireland. We visited in May, encountered a few showers along the way, but thoroughly enjoyed the county’s captivating charms. Our journey began in Ballina before taking in Foxford Mills, the historic seaside village of Killala and the magnificent coastline towards Belmullet.
Mayo is a considerable distance from Waterford, but for anyone seeking the real west of Ireland, it is hard to beat. Cork, Kerry, Clare and Galway may be busier with tourist coaches and commercial activity, but Mayo offers something different. It is more in the realm of slow tourism, where visitors can take their time exploring small towns, islands, peninsulas, mountains, lakes and wonderfully wild scenery. It can also offer better value, something increasingly difficult to find in Ireland these days, while still providing that all-important wow factor, as one British visitor recently remarked to me.
Getting There
Driving from Waterford, we took the Limerick route, continuing through the Shannon Tunnel and along the improved road network towards Tuam before heading for Ballina, our first destination in North Mayo. The journey is a long one, but the improved motorways and dual carriageways have made travelling across the country considerably easier than in previous years.
Having a car is particularly useful when exploring North Mayo because many of the most interesting attractions are spread across the countryside and coastline. Ballina provides a convenient base for visiting Foxford, Killala, Kiltimagh and the wider Erris peninsula, with plenty of opportunities to discover smaller villages and scenic landscapes along the way.
Exploring the Destination
Ballina and the River Moy
We had visited Ballina many years earlier, but the town has attracted considerable international attention in recent times, particularly following the visit of former American President Joe Biden in April 2023. Biden’s ancestral connections with Mayo made the occasion especially significant, and he drew a massive crowd along the quays of the River Moy, where local people turned out in large numbers to welcome him. The visit was a proud occasion for the town and helped put Ballina firmly on the international map.
The River Moy is central to Ballina’s identity and has been famous for salmon fishing for generations, attracting anglers from Ireland and overseas. One of its best-known visitors was the late Jack Charlton, the legendary former Republic of Ireland football manager, who loved fishing on the Moy and found it an ideal place to unwind away from the pressures of international football. Today, a striking mural of Charlton overlooks the river, providing a fitting reminder of his affection for the area.
The river also has a fascinating commercial history. During the nineteenth century, salmon was exported in substantial quantities to Britain, supplying restaurants and markets in London and elsewhere. Historical accounts refer to extraordinary catches, with figures of up to 50,000 salmon recorded in a single year. It is a reminder of how important fishing and the river once were to the local economy.
Like many regional Irish towns, Ballina has experienced changes in its retail sector, with some empty shop units and others being converted into housing. Nevertheless, it retains plenty of character, with its riverside setting, historic buildings, hotels and interesting visitor attractions. One place in particular deserves much more attention and was among the highlights of our visit.
History & Culture
The Jackie Clarke Collection: A Treasure Trove of Irish History
One of the most impressive attractions we discovered in Ballina was the Jackie Clarke Collection, recommended to us by Mayo tourism coordinator Maura Murphy. It proved to be an excellent suggestion and is undoubtedly one of the finest collections of material relating to Ireland’s journey towards independence. Housed in a historic building on Pearse Street, the collection brings together an extraordinary range of maps, books, political documents, posters, newspapers and historical artefacts.
Jackie Clarke came from a successful Ballina family involved in the fish-exporting business, and the family’s wealth allowed him to pursue his lifelong passion for collecting Irish historical material. Educated at Blackrock College in Dublin, he became a committed Irish republican and particularly admired Éamon de Valera, who also had connections with the college. Over the years, Clarke assembled an exceptional collection covering some of the most important periods in modern Irish history, including the 1916 Rising, the War of Independence and the Civil War.
Visitors can discover fascinating election posters, newspaper reports, political publications and documents connected with Kilmainham Gaol and the movements that shaped the emergence of the Irish state. Clarke served for many years in local politics, initially as a Sinn Féin representative before later joining Fianna Fáil. His passion for collecting continued throughout his life, and he purchased many rare artefacts at auctions. While other successful businessmen might have invested primarily in property, Jackie invested in history, leaving behind a remarkable legacy.
Following his death, the collection was donated to the people of Ballina by his family, with the important condition that it should be properly housed and made available to the public free of charge. It has since become a valuable resource for visitors, historians, students and people researching their family histories. During our visit, curator Yvonne Loftus-Corcoran brought considerable knowledge and enthusiasm to the project, drawing on her previous experience with the Michael Davitt Museum. Anyone interested in Irish history could easily spend several hours exploring this fascinating collection.
Ballina’s Presidential Connections
Ballina is also the birthplace of former Irish President Mary Robinson, whose contribution to Irish political life and international human rights has given the town another important historical connection. A building beside the River Moy has been associated with plans to celebrate her legacy, although it was not open to the public when we tried to visit. This had caused some concern locally, particularly given Robinson’s international reputation and her important place in Irish history.
Together with Joe Biden’s ancestral connections, these stories demonstrate how a relatively small town in the west of Ireland has played a part in international political life. They also add another interesting dimension to Ballina’s heritage, beyond its traditional reputation for fishing and commerce.
Food & Dining
Ballina has a good selection of restaurants, cafés and hotel dining facilities, making it a comfortable base for exploring North Mayo. During our visit, we stayed at the Great National Hotel Ballina, which offered good dining facilities and a leisure centre. It was a pleasant place to return to after a day spent exploring the surrounding countryside and coastal towns.
The River Moy and the nearby Atlantic coastline have long associations with fishing and seafood, and visitors exploring the smaller coastal villages may find opportunities to purchase locally landed fish, depending on availability. For those interested in food and drink production, the Connacht Distillery, located near the River Moy, is another attraction worth investigating. It adds a modern enterprise to a town already rich in commercial and industrial history.
Things to Do
Kiltimagh Velorail: A Different Way to Explore Mayo
On our way to Ballina, we stopped at Kiltimagh, a town associated with the famous Irish-language poet Antoine Ó Raifteirí, better known as Raftery. However, our reason for stopping was something quite different — the Kiltimagh Velorail, an unusual attraction that allows visitors to pedal a specially designed vehicle along a disused railway track.
The approximately five-kilometre route begins in the village and takes visitors through peaceful countryside and farmland, providing a welcome change from a long drive. The vehicles can accommodate small groups, making it an enjoyable experience for families, couples and friends. It is also a surprisingly good workout, particularly when everyone is expected to contribute to the pedalling.
The concept is similar to attractions found in parts of France and Germany, while the vehicles themselves were developed with engineering expertise. It is a clever example of how an old railway line can be given a new purpose and transformed into an enjoyable tourism experience. We certainly found it an entertaining way to break up our journey from Waterford, and it is well worth considering when travelling through this part of Mayo.
Foxford Woollen Mills: An Irish Success Story
Another excellent attraction near Ballina is Foxford Woollen Mills, one of Mayo’s most remarkable examples of traditional Irish manufacturing. Established in 1892 to provide employment in an area badly affected by poverty and emigration, the mills became an important part of the local economy. After facing serious difficulties in the twentieth century, the business was rescued and developed into a successful modern enterprise while retaining its strong connection with Irish textile heritage.
Today, Foxford is particularly well known for its quality woollen blankets, throws and other textile products. We enjoyed an excellent guided tour, arranged by appointment, where we learned about the mill’s history and saw how traditional manufacturing methods had been adapted for modern production. The extensive shop also sells tweeds, woollen clothing and other Irish-made products, making it an attractive destination for visitors interested in quality craftsmanship.
There is also a lovely connection between Foxford and Waterford, as the company’s products are sold at Mount Congreve Gardens. It is encouraging to see traditional Irish manufacturing businesses reaching customers throughout Ireland and overseas, particularly at a time when so much production has moved abroad. Foxford demonstrates how heritage, enterprise and tourism can work together successfully.
Killala: A Historic Coastal Village
Killala is another interesting destination within easy reach of Ballina. This attractive coastal village has a historic round tower and a fascinating connection with the French landing during the Irish rebellion of 1798. General Jean Joseph Amable Humbert and his French troops landed at Killala before marching towards Castlebar, where they achieved a notable victory against British forces.
The events of 1798 remain an important part of Mayo’s history, and Killala offers visitors an opportunity to discover this period while enjoying the surrounding coastal scenery. The village also provides a pleasant stopping point when travelling towards the Céide Fields and the more remote landscapes of North Mayo.
More to Discover Around Ballina
There are several other attractions worth exploring in and around Ballina. The River Moy provides pleasant opportunities for walking and discovering the town’s fishing heritage, while the Jack Charlton mural has become a recognisable local landmark. The Jackie Clarke Collection is essential for anyone interested in Irish history, and the Connacht Distillery offers another perspective on local enterprise.
For those with more time, the journey can continue towards Belmullet and Erris, where the Atlantic scenery becomes increasingly dramatic. The wider region has beaches, archaeological sites, historic lighthouses and fascinating stories that make North Mayo a destination worth exploring over several days rather than rushing through.
Where to Stay
Ballina offers a range of accommodation, from hotels to smaller guesthouses and bed and breakfasts. We stayed at the Great National Hotel Ballina, which provided comfortable accommodation, good dining and leisure facilities. It made a convenient base for exploring the surrounding area and returning after long days on the road.
For visitors planning to explore the wider North Mayo coastline, Ballina is a useful starting point before continuing towards Killala, Céide Fields, Belmullet and Erris. If you have several days available, it may be worth dividing your stay between Ballina and one of the more remote coastal locations, allowing more time to enjoy the scenery without spending too much of each day driving.
Local Tips
North Mayo is best explored at a relaxed pace, particularly if you are travelling from Waterford or another part of the country. Allow plenty of time for the journey and avoid trying to fit too many attractions into a single day. Having a car makes a considerable difference, as many of the most interesting places are spread across the countryside.
The Jackie Clarke Collection should be a priority for history enthusiasts, while Kiltimagh Velorail offers an enjoyable change of pace for families and groups. If you plan to visit Foxford Woollen Mills, arranging a tour in advance is recommended. It is also worth checking opening times for smaller attractions, particularly outside the main tourism season.
Above all, leave some flexibility in your itinerary. Part of Mayo’s appeal is the opportunity to discover unexpected places, stop in small towns and talk to local people. These experiences often provide some of the most memorable moments of a journey.
Final Thoughts
Mayo may be a long journey from Waterford, but it is certainly worth the effort. The county has a different pace from some of Ireland’s busier tourism destinations, with less commercialisation in many areas, more space to explore and an abundance of fascinating local stories. Ballina is particularly interesting because it combines traditional fishing heritage with modern political history, while the River Moy remains at the heart of the town’s identity.
The Jackie Clarke Collection was a particular highlight of our visit. It is remarkable that one man’s passion for collecting Irish historical material has left such a valuable legacy for future generations. Nearby, Kiltimagh offers something entirely different with its Velorail experience, while Foxford Woollen Mills tells an inspiring story of Irish enterprise, manufacturing and resilience. Add in Killala’s historic French connections and the spectacular North Mayo coastline, and there is more than enough to justify a longer stay.
For us, Mayo is a county that rewards travellers willing to venture beyond the familiar tourist routes. Its combination of history, heritage, scenery and welcoming communities makes it a special part of Ireland, and one that deserves much more attention from visitors looking for an authentic west-of-Ireland experience.
Related Articles
Useful Outbound Links
Visit Mayo — County Mayo tourism and visitor information.
Jackie Clarke Collection — Irish historical collections in Ballina.
Kiltimagh Velorail — Visitor information and bookings.
Foxford Woollen Mills — Heritage, tours and Irish textiles.
Connacht Distillery — Distillery information.
Discover Ireland — Travel inspiration and attractions across Ireland.
By Kieran Walsh
Kieran’s Voyages — Travel Stories, Culture & Discovery