Ireland

Why Achill Island is the Perfect Staycation in the West of Ireland With overseas travel not always necessary, there has never been a better time to rediscover Ireland’s own remarkable islands. Off the coast of County Mayo, Achill Island offers dramatic scenery, Atlantic beaches, rich history and a slower pace of life — making it an ideal alternative to foreign travel. Achill Island came highly recommended by a family member last year, so a short visit was planned — just one overnight stay, but enough to get a feel for the place. My previous visit had been decades ago, as a student without a car, relying on lifts and Bus Éireann. This time, travelling independently made all the difference. Getting There: The Journey West The journey to Achill is long but rewarding. The quickest route is via Limerick and the Galway motorway, while another option is through the Midlands via Mullingar, linking Carlow’s M9, Tullamore and the M4 before heading towards Castlebar. For those who prefer extended motorway driving, this route works well. From Waterford, allow 4.5 to 5 hours, including breaks. The Limerick bypass is excellent, though the Tipp–Limerick section still feels outdated for modern traffic. With over 200 miles to cover, making full use of the motorways is advisable. First Impressions & Where We Stayed We stayed in Achill Sound, close to where the old railway once terminated and at the end of the Great Western Greenway. The area is lively, with plenty of cyclists taking advantage of the flat, scenic route. One of Achill’s biggest advantages is that it is accessible by car, allowing visitors to explore freely. There are numerous walking and hiking trails, outdoor dining options at pubs, and several casual diners — including a surprisingly good American-style diner.   Landscape, Trails & Local Life Mayo is famous for its bogland and hills, and Achill reflects this perfectly. Signage across the island is good, but a visit to the tourist office at Keel Bay is essential. The staff provide excellent maps and local insight, helping visitors plan walks and drives with confidence. Keel Bay itself boasts a fantastic sandy beach with shallow waters, ideal for families. One of the highlights of the trip was simply parking the car, swimming in the sea on a warm day, and looking back at the striking hills framing the bay. Nearby facilities include ample parking, a busy caravan park, house rentals, B&Bs, and water sports such as kayaking, surfing and even diving. Porpoises are occasionally spotted offshore. Keem Bay & the Atlantic Drive Further along Achill’s south coast lies Keem Bay, nestled between the towering Benmore Cliffs and Croghaun Mountain. Reached via the Atlantic Drive, the road surface is generally good, though narrow in places — meeting large camper vans can be challenging. Keem is also a starting point for walks leading towards some of Ireland’s highest sea cliffs, with limited road access beyond this point. Paths and boreens lead hikers further west towards Achill Head. Accommodation & Dining We checked into the Achill Island Hotel, offering exceptional value — around €50 per person, with a three-course dinner option for approximately €30. The traditional Irish breakfast alone sets you up for a full day of exploring. Family-run and welcoming, the hotel also offers bike hire, making it a convenient base. Autumn breaks are possible, particularly midweek, though summer months tend to book out quickly. Dining is hearty and traditional — roast lamb, salmon and wholesome Irish fare served in generous portions.   Walking, Cycling & Outdoor Activities Achill offers a wide range of mapped walks, catering to different fitness levels. Weather awareness is essential, as some routes are high and exposed. Good walking boots are strongly recommended due to boggy terrain, and paved routes may be preferable for casual walkers. Cycling routes are plentiful but challenging, given the island’s hills. Cyclists carrying camping gear may find some stretches demanding. Slievemore Deserted Village & History One of Achill’s most striking historical sites is the Slievemore Deserted Village, accessible via clear road signage. Dating back to the early medieval period, the village was deeply affected by the Great Famine of 1847. Many of the stone cottages — built without mortar — still stand, preserved as a powerful reminder of the past. Homes were often single-room dwellings, shared with animals during harsh winters, with doorways facing east to avoid Atlantic winds. Nearby are megalithic tombs, a holy well, and a graveyard still used by families whose ancestors relocated nearby after the famine years. Culture, Literature & Emigration Mayo has a profound history of emigration to cities such as London, Manchester, Leeds, and across the Atlantic to New York, Boston and New England. Achill’s story is deeply connected to this diaspora. The island later gained attention through artists such as Paul Henry and Jack B. Yeats, whose landscapes captured its raw beauty. Writers, including Heinrich Böll, lived and worked on Achill, helping introduce Ireland to German tourists. Böll stayed near Dugort Beach, where a welcoming beachfront bar and restaurant can still be found. Achill also features a literary heritage trail and hosts cultural events, including writers’ weekends and walking festivals. Shopping, Food & Local Produce Highlights include: Achill Sea Salt, including seaweed blends Achill Island Distillery, offering tours and tastings near Bunacurry Craft shops selling wool jumpers, pottery, art and souvenirs Local galleries (time permitting) Nearby Stops & Practical Tips Newport makes a good stop for supplies, with SuperValu and Mace well stocked Westport is the main regional hub, known for its architecture and Westport House The Great Western Greenway attracts large numbers of walkers and cyclists Achill has a scenic 9-hole golf course at Keel Public transport is possible via train to Westport and onward bus connections, though travel time is long. Final Thoughts Achill Island combines natural beauty, deep history, outdoor adventure and genuine Irish hospitality. Whether staying for a night or a week, it offers a refreshing reminder that some of the best travel experiences are right on our

Surf, Yeats, Coastline & Culture in Ireland’s Northwest We recently ventured to the northwest. Having visited Carrick-on-Shannon, we went a little further to reach the port town of Sligo. We recall the days of the great Blues team and some tussles with Sligo Rovers. Yeats’ poetry is another common link, as is surfing for Tramore people and golf. Like Waterford, Sligo has a fine coastline — not as large — but also beautiful mountain scenery and remarkable megalithic sites, from dolmens to cairns and standing stones. It is easy to spend a few days here without having to drive too far, as activities are varied and close at hand. Sea, Surf & the Atlantic Coast Tramore surfers know Easkey and Strandhill beaches well and have competed there in national competitions. We met people from local surf schools and know the Moore and Moran surfing families, some of whom have spent time here as surf teachers or competitors. Allow around two hours for surfing, including preparation, lessons, and wetsuit changing. Adult group lessons cost approximately €50 per person, with a minimum of three people per group. See StrandhillSurfSchool.com. Mammy Johnston’s ice cream in Strandhill is excellent. However, this is not a safe place for swimming — it is best suited to surfing. We also noted a good menu at the Strand Bar and Restaurant. Another popular attraction is the seaweed baths, where you can enjoy VOYA skin treatments. Swimming is best at Rosses Point beaches and around the pier area near the Sligo Yacht Club. After your swim, try the hot sauna option — €15 for 45 minutes, including a plunge pool — which was busy even midweek. Swimmers can also try the nearby beach, which has soft, dark sand. It was a little blustery on the day, but there is ample parking. The Sligo Metal Man is also located here near the Yacht Club, guarding the shipping channel into Sligo Port. It was built at the same time as the Tramore Metal Man by Lloyd’s of London, though this one stands directly in the sea rather than on a pillar. Rosses Point is also famous for golf. We hear Strandhill also offers good golfing, though it is a challenging links course. Where to Stay Sligo has a good selection of hotels. We stayed at the recommended Sligo Park Hotel in the suburbs. If you prefer a more central location, the Glasshouse Hotel is another option. The Sligo Park Hotel also boasts a fine restaurant. Food, Cafés & Local Dining Other dining options in town include “The Restaurant”, “Hargadon”, and “Osta”. Try real Italian ice cream at Fabio’s near the post office, and visit Lyons Café Bakery. Dining and pubs often feature jazz and live music programmes. Music, Heritage & Local History The famous Sligo fiddler Michael Coleman was based in New York and was one of the first to record Irish music on vinyl. A tribute to him is housed in the town museum, and the Michael Coleman Cultural Centre is located outside the town. The museum also displays the mayoral chain, following changes to Sligo City Council status under Minister Phil Hogan. There are photos of soccer player Dixie Dean at Sligo Rovers, an FAI League pennant from 1937, and many fine historical images from social and revolutionary periods. The Hawks Well Theatre hosts shows and films. Visit the City Museum on the Mall and the Model Gallery, where we saw excellent Yeats-related exhibitions. Another famous Sligo figure is Countess Markievicz, Irish revolutionary and namesake of the local GAA ground. She grew up at nearby Lissadell House, which is open to the public during the summer months. Lough Gill & the Yeats Landscape On this visit, we skipped the Yeats poetry trail due to fine weather and instead took a boat tour on Lough Gill, operated by the McGoldrick family. This is good value, and the guided commentary explains much about the lake, including readings from Yeats’ poems such as The Isle of Innisfree, which also lends its name to the comfortable, covered boat. The Fiddler of Dooney was another Yeats poem quoted during the tour. Lough Gill is remarkably unspoiled and provides drinking water for both Sligo and Leitrim. An American whiskey investor, Sazerac, has taken over a local distillery producing the Garavogue brand at Hawks Rock Distillery. Hazelwood House is to be restored as part of expansion plans, including a new visitor centre near the lake. There is plenty of wildlife around the lake, and some fishing boats are tied up by locals for leisure use. Doorly Park, where the boat departs, is close to town and includes a lovely community café at the old gate lodge. For Yeats enthusiasts, guided tours from the town centre are recommended. Local experts from the Yeats Society are available, including journalist Susan O’Keeffe, a director of the society. A local bank in town also displays Yeats memorabilia. Art, Trails & Landscape After the Lough Gill boat tour, we visited the Jack Yeats exhibition at the Model Gallery, where 20 original paintings from the Niland Collection are on display until late November. Entry is free. There is also a map outlining the Yeats Trail, with five points around Lough Gill, forest areas, and coastal locations. We missed sites such as the Kesh Caves, Knocknarea (Queen Maeve’s Cairn), and Benbulben Mountain, which are all listed on the trail. See: Yeatstrail.ie Roseofinnisfree.com (boat tours, tel. 087 259 8869) Sligowalks.ie for the Queen Maeve Trail near Strandhill Queen Maeve is a fascinating historical figure, reputedly married several times. The Green Fort of Sligo traces the story of the Jacobite Wars of 1690. There is also the Diarmuid and Gráinne Lovers’ Cave, later used as an IRA hideout during the Troubles. Jack Yeats’ paintings in the Model Gallery depict scenes such as horse racing on the strand, the funeral of Harry Boland, political meetings in the west over a 100 years ago, and local scenery. Getting There Trains and buses operate from Dublin Connolly